
Hmm where to start, well first off I should let you know that I’m writing this on June 12th which as you very well may know is way after the start of my adventure, so everything from the beginning to now is all done from memory. I sure hope I don’t leave anything out. In any regard I decided to do a trip on a motorcycle for quite some time now. I became really interested in riding the summer after I graduated from VMI when I learned how to ride dirt bikes. I then made it my mission to get a bike, it didn’t matter what kind of bike just a bike, for the longest time I was looking at everything from big Harley’s to little sport bikes, to 1978 Yamaha Enduros, like my dad used to ride. In addition once I had said bike I wanted to do something big with this bike, and I knew that I would be having a sizable chunk of time on my hands upon my graduation from ‘The University’ and I thought maybe some backpacking in Europe, you know the standard post college adventure, and as enticing I thought it would have been I decided to forgo that idea and go to Europe some day later when I have more money to enjoy our friends across the Atlantic. So I thought about it some more… trip… motorcycle, trip plus motorcycle should be even more fun, so I put a plan into action. Ride around the United States on a motorcycle that is what I would do after I graduated for the second time. Simple right, well this trip has been in the works for almost 2 years now, because A.) I haven’t really been many places in the United States, B.) Motorcycles are new to me, and C.) traveling on a motorcycle for months at a time is very very new to me actually it’s a completely foreign concept. So I had to do a lot of planning, like what kind of bike, where would I go, what do I need to bring ect ect. A good friend of mine recommended me the book Odyssey to Ushuaia, an excellent read to say the least. It’s about a guy who graduates from college and was going to go to medical school however he decided to get a motorcycle and ride from New York to the southernmost tip of South America. This book and others like it were the real catalysts and inspirations for my trip. The saying oh if he can do it then I can too, was a major supporter of my planning. So I knew I wanted to travel across the US but not just on boring old highways I wanted to do it on the back roads, I didn’t just want to see just exit and entrance ramps I wanted to see more. So I made it a point of my trip to do as little highways and interstates as possible. Since I would be doing back roads and many of these roads may or may not be under developed, i.e. dirt roads I would need a bike to handle both highways and dirt roads and the occasional trail riding. I decided that I would need a dual sport motorcycle. A dual sport can best be described as a Jeep Wrangler of motorcycles. Low and behold the bike of my dreams appeared one day on craigslist and I went and got it as soon as possible. I purchased a 2002 Kawasaki KLR 650. The king of all dual sports, it’s not just a motorcycle, it’s an indestructible machine. KLR’s have been known to travel hundreds and thousands of miles all around the globe, this is the reason I chose this bike, it is sturdy, reliable, tough, easy to maintain, powerful, graceful…. Bla bla bla needless to say its an amazing bike and I love it dearly.
Although this bike is the bike of bikes, I had to do a lot of modifications to it to make it ready for the trip. Here I will list all the things I have done to the bike.
June 1, 2008
The official start of my trip was from my home base of the Mazzenga residents in Montclair Virginia. My parents bid me farewell with a delicious dinner and countless pictures. I still think they are confused as to what I am doing, oh well. My first stop was an uneventful stop, however I made it eventful. Before I departed I had to take care of some unfinished business in Charlottesville with my Master’s Thesis. I had to present it to the VDOT (Virginia Department of Transportation) brass to see what they thought about it and it gave them a chance to offer any suggestions. The meeting went extremely well and essentially they said that my research was not done in vain but that it was very relevant, informative and came at an excellent time. So I left with a smile. I made my last evening in Charlottesville an eventful one by visiting some of Charlottesville finest watering holes, like the Virginian. Being a Sunday night I realized that the only place that would be open would be of course the Virginian. I enjoyed my time there and woke up refreshed and ready for my meeting.
June 2, 2008
The official official start date of my trip is this day since it is when I left for Richmond, my first official stop on my itinerary. The ride to Richmond was rather uneventful. Not wanting to deal with directions I just hopped on 64 and headed straight to Richmond where I stayed with Margaret Ann’s family. I had a great time hanging out with MA and her sisters, then MA took me to a really good micro brewery called I believe Logan’s which overlooks Richmond. The next day MA took me around Richmond and showed me the sights, seeing that I have never actually seen much of Richmond. I visited the University of Richmond, I saw the Governor’s mansion and we drove by THE Country Club of Virginia. We then went to Carytown and walked around and got a really good pita lunch. Then it was time for me to hit the road for my next stop
June 3, 2008
North Carolina’s Outer Banks was my next stop on my itinerary. There I visited Allison and Kay-Kay and Leigh and Ben and an assortment of other people. It was a lot of fun! When I got there Allison showed me around and if I can remember I think we went out and got dinner. In the OBX I stayed at Allison’s place aptly named ‘The Electric Tent’. It’s in Duck and a short walk to the beach. That evening we went to a party at one of Ben and Allison’s friends place, and we met up with Leigh and Kay-Kay there. It was really cool to see those gals because they are a lot of fun, plus Kay-Kay had been in South America for the past year so it was fun seeing her again. She’s a big inspiration for this trip, too because of her adventurous attitude and the live it or lose it lifestyle, which I completely envy. I slept on the deck on the roof of the electric tent that evening and it was really cool waking up to hear the waves crashing and to see the sunrise.
June 4, 2008
My first full day in the OBX and Allison and I just chilled out we woke up late and Allison showed me around Duck. We went to Nags Head Hammocks where she works and we went to Leigh’s Mom’s store which she just opened, which everyone should go to! Allison and I then got sno-balls from Jeffery’s ice cream shop. Jeffery is a local who is known for his foul mouth, and the trip to Jeffery’s was everything I anticipated and more, what a character. In any regard I recommend to anyone in Duck to visit Jeffery’s Ice Cream shop as well. Later that afternoon Allison and I just chilled out and sat on the beach. Ben brought down some sit on top kayaks and we surfed in the waves in them. However Allison was being a not adventurous and wouldn’t surf in the waves because she was afraid of falling in the water. That evening we had a cook out. Then me Allison and Ben all rode our bikes (bicycles) to the Sunset Grill. They had a DJ that night, thus all the vacationers were out that evening dancing up a storm. They played lots of 80s music and all got a lot of laughs out of the 30 and 40 something’s dancing like fiends.
June 5, 2008
The next morning I bid farewell to Allison and the ‘electric tent’ and I made my way down the coast of the outer banks. This was by far one of the things I was waiting to do the most. I had always wanted to drive down the outer banks all the way to the end. It was a really great and relaxing ride. I went to Avon, Hatters, and a bunch of other towns I can’t remember. I rode down to the four wheel drive area and I took my bike into the sand and I was about to take it all the way on to the beach but I remembered all these horror stories I had read about getting loaded down bikes stuck in the sand. So I went out as far as I could on the hard gravel into the 4x4 area. Driving down the coast was absolutely amazing for some parts of the drive there was nothing on either side of me but the ocean on one and the sound on the other, and sand dunes for as far as I could see. I then proceeded on to the first ferry crossing in the OBX. The first one was 20 minutes and it was free and having a motorcycle is great because A.) You don’t need reservations because they can stick you anywhere on the boat and B.) You can go to the front of the line. The next ferry was in Hatters and that one was 2 hours long and I had to pay for that one. There was another motorcycle on that ferry and man and his wife from Florida. They were on a late 80s Honda Goldwing. When I talked to the couple they said they were very jealous of my trip and said they wished they could come with but they have to get back to work. The second ferry ride was absolute hell though. There were three tour buses of an 8th grade end of the year trip, so there was tons and tons of kids running around, one of the doors opened up from the tour bus right on my bike and I was just waiting for that one kid to knock my bike over and I’d subsequently knock him off the boat. Thankfully the ferry ride went without incident and pulling into the mainland in Cedar Point NC there were wild horses on the beach which was very cool to see. From there I kept riding to just outside camp Lejune where I bedded down for the night at an awesome camp ground. It was just for RVs but the guy let me stay there and they had wireless at all the camp sites which was a nice plus. On my way from the last ferry to the camp site I stopped off in Beaufort NC which was a really nice town, which I wish I could have spent some more time in.
June 6, 2008
Charleston South Carolina was next on my list for 2 reasons, one I had never been there and had heard many a good things about it and two my old roommate and friend from VMI, Chris Back is in school down there with the Navy. Being the weekend Chris promised me a good time in Charleston and I was not failed. Chris showed me around Charleston we went to the battery, saw all the houses. That evening he took me to Hymn’s; which is a well known seafood restaurant in Charleston. I got the Carolina delight, which is their specialty dish. It was amazing and if you know me I always clean my plate no matter what and this food was just so good and filling I couldn’t finish it. What the Carolina delight is, is fried fish of the day and on top of that is grilled scallops and on top of that is an alfredo cream and garlic sauce, and on top of all of that is bacon and cheddar cheese with a side of hush puppies. And wow was it the best thing ever, sitting in my campsite now writing this after eating my ramen and tuna fish I really wish I had my left overs right now. After that amazing dinner Chris took me to some of Charleston’s finest watering holes, and I met some of his friends in the Navy.
June 7, 2008
The next day I woke early because I had to get my bike into the shop. The day I left the campground I did an oil change on my bike and when I did it I noticed some metal shavings on the oil drain plug and the plug wasn’t screwing in completely tight. It was then I thought the worst, I must have stripped the threads on my engine for the drain plug. So I took great care on my drive to Charleston constantly checking the oil level. I got it into the shop and I was correct in my worst fear assumption, the threads were stripped and my beloved KLR would have to undergo major surgery to be brought back to life. Luckily the only Kawasaki dealer in the Charleston area was right around the corner from Chris’. After we dropped it off Chris and I did some more sightseeing in Charleston. We went to VMI’s famed rival the Citadel and toured around there for a bit. It was blazing hot outside however we rode out the heat to see everything we could see. The Citadel was nice; however I think VMI is nicer, what me biased… never. After the Citadel we got lunch in Charleston and Chris and I helped a girl jump start her car, and in return she gave us a free parking pass for her store in Charleston. That evening was Chris’s wetting down party which is the party all Navy officers get when they go from Ensign to Lieutenant JG (Junior Grade). The party was at a really nice club right on the waterfront by the Charleston Aquarium. After the party Chris got thrown into the water from the docks, to be ‘wetted down’. The next day I was on my way again.
June 8, 2008
I departed Charleston for a lengthy ride across Georgia to Columbus Georgia, near Fort Benning. Reason for this part of the trip… to visit my good buddy Jimmy (James) Wicker and his bride to be. The ride across Georgia was rather uneventful and rather rough. I stopped a couple times just to walk around and relax. I got a late start leaving Charleston, not getting out of there until around 2. This slated me for an 11 o’clock arrival at Jimmy’s. It was blazing hot out, at over 100 degrees for the better part of the day. I checked my tires on the ride there and I noticed some slight cracking and deteriorate on the rear tire and the front tire was very worn down. I knew at my next stop I would have to get new tires. I drove clear across the state of Georgia to Columbus and it was a long long ride. When I got to Jimmy’s I met Caitlin, their dogs and I was quickly asleep, from sheer exhaustion of my long day.
June 9, 2008
The next morning Jimmy and I went to breakfast at IHOP, and I was quickly on my way again. Jimmy was in the process of checking out of his unit in Georgia and he is on his way up to the 10th mountain division in upstate New York, with none other than Shawn Hogan! So needless to say I will be hanging out with Jimmy and Shawn again at the end of my adventure when I am passing through upstate New York! Stay posted because I am sure there will be many a story from that visit! As per Caitlin’s advice I drove to Eufala Alabama, which needless to say is the Big Bass Capitol of the world… I sure didn’t know that but it is, or at least that’s what all the signs say. I drove down the entire eastern part of Alabama into the gulf coast of Florida. From there I skirted the Gulf Coast passing through Panama City, Destin and lastly Pensacola, which is where I headed north to Milton Florida. There I stayed with Dan Rogers and Tyler McKnight. Two people I have gone to school with at separate schools seem to have found themselves as roommates in flight school, funny how that seems to work out! In Milton I knew it was time for me to get new tires. So I found a place that could have brand new Avon Gripsters shipped in overnight and put on the next day! Boy was I pumped to get some new kicks on my bike! The ride down the coast was pretty awesome. I really enjoy driving along the beach roads whether it is in the Carolinas or the gulf coast. The beaches were crystal clear with white sands for as far as I could see. Tyler and Dan have a really nice house in Milton right by the base where they are training to be helicopter pilots, and they are living with a Charlottesville native which is cool because we all know how much of a fan I am of Charlottesville! Being in Milton was a much needed break for me. I was very lazy and did not do much. Having spent a spring break before in Pensacola I did not feel the need to rock out this time I was here. I think the rest was very crucial because the day I drove to new Orleans I was a machine… maybe it was the new tires but I felt like a million bucks!
June 10, 2008
Since I got into Milton late I couldn’t get a hold of the bike shop but as soon as I woke up I called TurnOne Performance in Milton Florida and the manager there said that he could overnight the tires to his store and have them for me in the morning to be installed. I hung out with Dan and Tyler and did some little repair things on my bike and preventative maintenance. Before leaving my house I had ordered some parts and had them shipped to Tyler’s, so I spent some time installing those. I got a lowered kick stand for my bike since after it was lowered my regular kick stand was too tall and all I had was the lowered center stand that I ordered which is very convenient for doing maintenance and stuff on the bike but getting a fully loaded KLR up on to and off a center stand is a feat in and of itself. Effectively you have to push the entire bike off the stand with all its weight and I am not going to lie a couple times I have slowly lowered it to the pavement on it side, but never worry , my indestructible pelican cases protect the bike from any knocks, scratches or cuts! So I got the side stand on and I also got some great wolfman tank panniers, to carry a little extra gear. It’s important to have as much weight forward on the bike as possible however currently all the weight aside from the tank bag is at the back of the bike on the boxes. So I use the tank panniers to carry any extra heavy stuff. Also when I get into more back country riding out west where I have to pack in more food for multiple days I will use the panniers to carry food and water as well.
June 11, 2008I got the tires put on today and they are AMAZING!!! The guy at the store was very impressed I made it that far on the tires I had. They just were not made for that intense of pavement riding which I had to do to get out west to the vast unpaved roads out there. The shop was really cool and the waiting room was right in the store and the shop so I got to see them as they did all the work on my beloved KLR. Riding the bike back to Tyler’s felt like night and day. The only way I could compare would be if you drove a Model T on a dirt road and then got in a Lexus and drove on Indianapolis speed way. It was a lot smoother and there was much less jarring around. I also improved my miles per gallon by a whole 10 mpg. Yes you read correctly 10 mpg better, I now get somewhere around 55 mpg! Once I got back I got the bike up on the center stand and I adjusted the suspension to be a little stiffer. I noticed when Dan got on and rode it around the neighborhood it sagged A LOT. So I thought if I stiffened up the suspension then there would be less sag and the bike wouldn’t bottom out in case I hit any big bumps when I take on Big Bend National Park in Texas the coming week!
June 12, 2008
Ah finally back on the road again… Today was by far a very exciting and exhilarating day. However there are many more like it to come. Having never been to New Orleans I decided that I must go. So I headed to the gulf coast from Milton and skirted the water on Highway 90. It took me through Gulfport and Biloxi Mississippi. These towns were very unique and interesting. It was clear that there was extensive destruction to the entire Mississippi and Louisiana coast from Hurricane Katrina. There was tons and tons of empty lots with nothing but the drain pipe sticking up. In the mix of brand new mansions was deserted lots. There was a lot of construction going on, and every building I saw along the coast was either leveled or completely redone and brand new. I really liked driving down the coast though on highway 90 there were huge trees with Spanish moss covering them which subsequently shaded the entire road, and bordering the road was huge plantation homes and then bordering the other side was white sand beaches. It was a beach town like I’d never seen before. Huge plantation homes with big white columns and perfectly manicured lawns, with huge mahogany trees and palm trees mixed together all covered in Spanish moss adjacent to expansive white sand beaches and crystal clear water. Do you get the picture now? After passing through Gulfport I took a ferry across a bay, I can’t remember which one but it took me to the mainland of Louisiana. Crossing on the ferry was quick, however at 8 bucks it was not a deal. I paid 10 on the Pamlico Sound ferry and I got a 2 hour ride this one was just 20 minutes. Oh well, in any regard when I was crossing the bay there was a lot of off shore oil platforms which was pretty cool and I had never seen so many like that before. When I crossed into Louisiana, I made my way into the mainland but not before driving along the Alabama coastline some more. Again more white sand beaches however these ones were very desolate and there was not many houses as I believe most of them were washed away due to Katrina. When I got into Louisiana I drove through the Bayou, which was way cool; another very different environment which I had never been in. It was comprised of a lot of swamps and bridges connecting little islands. I was rather impressed at the number of roads crossing through the bayou and through all the swamps. I made my way into New Orleans around 5ish but I wasn’t planning on spending the night there, since it would have been very very expensive and plus I was nervous about leaving my one and only mode of transportation for the next few months in a rather dangerous city. However driving through New Orleans was very very cool. I was slightly apprehensive about driving into the city but it was well worth it. The city is so amazing very old and with a lot of culture! I spent an hour or so just cruising the various streets. I drove down Bourbon Street of course and I got quite a bit of hollers and questions as to where I was going. After spending some time in NOLA, I made my way out of the city to the Tickfaw State Park where I planned to spend the night. The drive from New Orleans to Tickfaw was another very picturesque drive which I wasn’t expecting. I took interstate 10 west, which took me towards Baton Rouge through more of the Bayou. Most of the highway is elevated above the swamp for a good 20 miles or so. It was very cool to look out and all you could see was swamp for as far as the eye could see. I arrived to Tickfaw after picking up some provisions and this brings me to where I am currently. I am doused in bug spray fending off man eating mosquitoes in the middle of the Louisiana Bayou. Tomorrow I will continue heading west where I will be visiting my friend Kendra in Houston!
June 13 2008
I got a quasi late start this morning, sleeping in then the rain started, so what was supposed to be an easy chill day turned into a rather rushed day, and on top of it all I had wanted to drive through Galveston Texas, but I couldn’t make it, I just had no idea how big Texas really is, I mean once I crossed the border I still had a good 200 more miles to go until I got to Huntsville, which is just outside Houston, where Kendra lives. What the gulf coast of Texas lacks in plain niceness it really makes up for it once you get on route 16, which a description of will come later. My drive from my campsite just outside new Orleans began rather poorly, it was a good thousand degrees with humidity, I honestly have to say the humidity was over 100 percent, I think I was actually swimming when I woke up and started packing up the bike. I tried to get dressed and packed as soon as I could because the only thing that would cure this drenching sweat would be the wind on my bike…. But that did not happen because as I was packing up it started to drizzle a little bit, so I donned my full pants and jacket head to toe in my man made sauna, and I left the camp ground. My plan was to drive to the coast through Baton Rouge then make my way along the coastline crossing through Mississippi, and then into Texas. Well that plan did not work out because it was a good 140 plus miles just to get to the coast and I had to go it slow since it was raining. On the plus side all of my gear worked as it should have in regards to the rain. My jacket kept me completely dry, the pants were great aside from the fact that I forgot to zip up park of the leg zip so I was drenched on one calf. My tank bag came with a rain cover and it kept everything dry, and my new tires work amazingly well in the slippery conditions! On my way to the coast I saw that I would be passing through Louisiana State University, so I decided to make a short stop just to check out the LSU campus, andddd it was really nice there. I drove along Greek row and all their sorority and fraternity houses are on this huge lake and the houses were absolutely gigantic. I took a picture of my bike in front of the KD house and the KA house of course. I made my way back to the highway and proceeded on my way. I was pretty excited because today was the day that I would be crossing the Mississippi river for the first time, aside from being in a plane. When I crossed the Mississippi river I noticed how much industry was on the river itself it’s like a highway in and of itself. I also saw the coincidental paddle boat and tons and tons of barges. When I finally made my way to the coast it was rather uneventful. There is nothing there, miles and miles of beaches with nothing, not a beach house or beach town in site. However justification for this was due to the fact that Katrina completely obliterated these towns. There were scatterings of new houses being put up but nothing substantial. Something that was in going at full force was the oil refineries and the oil pumping station. There were a number of off shore oil rigs dotting the coast line for as far as you could see. Thus for every oil platform there was about a hundred other pump stations on shore or refineries. Needless to say this area of the coast along Louisiana Mississippi and Texas is predominantly used for industry. Some of the more interesting things I saw along the way an alligator in the middle of the road, and I passed these power line workers using a helicopter to fix the power lines, now that was really cool. I saw the alligator in the road and I thought it was just a piece of a tire from far away but as I got closer I saw the scales and I slowed down but he flew into the air and ran back into the water. I got to Kendra’s place kind of late, it was a good 100 plus degrees when I arrived and I was soaked in sweat, good thing though as soon as I got there we went bowling and they had cold beer! Mmm delicious! I was fortunate enough to bowl a 100 at least once. The rest of the time I just spent in the company of good people with frosty beverages.
June 14, 2008
By far the best riding day yet! Even better than all the fun ferries in the outer banks. Texas really has a lot to offer once you get inland. I left Kendra’s around 10ish and she drew me an awesome map of college station home of Texas A&M. I think it’s fun to visit college towns and see what different schools have to offer. So far I’ve visited LSU, A&M, Citadel and UVA. Ok so first stop college station, for a couple reasons. Although the good people at Britt Motor Sports in Charleston SC repaired my oil plug leak, the bike is still leaking albeit slower. So I had to make a stop to the Kawasaki dealer in college station to pick up some more oil for the bike. I filled it with one quart and brought an extra quart with me. College station was fun driving around I couldn’t find the corps of cadets barracks or anything of that nature but I did get a picture in front of Kyle Stadium, home of the Aggies. After browsing around college station for a bit I headed over to Bryan Texas which is basically right next door and I got lunch at Chicken Oil Co. which was really really good. They had fried pickles which I really wanted badly but it was a whole meal and I didn’t think I could sustain myself on fried pickles alone! So I got a hamburger, a Margaret Ann favorite. After leaving Bryan I headed west where I would be camping at Lost Maples State Park. The drive to the campground was utterly amazing this is why I liked the ride today so much, it was tons of twisties, lots of very scenic mountain drives ect ect. I took 290 west to hwy 16 which brought me right into my camp ground after I skirted around Austin the road got less crowded and there were TONS of motorcycles out today. I don’t know there must have been some sort of rally this weekend but there were more bikes than cars on the road, all Harleys and big cruisers, I saw two count em two dual sports, and one KLR which for some reason was pulled over on the side of the road with some other bikes and a cop car. Hwy 290 is listed in my map book as a Michelin Tire Scenic drive and now I know why, the pictures don’t even do the road justice, all along the highway are tons and tons of ranches, really big ones with huge gates ushering you in. As I got further from Austin the roads got a lot more hilly until I was climbing some steep switch backs. I still haven’t perfected going smoothly in and out of turns but I’m working on it. I took my time today and relaxed the ride was very nice and I’m looking forward to tomorrows ride even more. The camp ground is very nice, I wish I had more time to explore this state park, when I drove in there were crystal clear streams that were dammed up in places, so I got to my site as fast as I could because I wanted to soak in the waters, it was so relaxing to get in the river. You could see all the way to the bottom and it was a perfect cooling temperature. Speaking of which I wish I was back in the river now. I stopped at Wal-Mart and got some more provisions for the next couple days. I’m going to need lots of food because tomorrow ill be headed to big bend national park and I’ll be doing some back country camping there which will be awesome. I mixed up my dinner a bit tonight and I had ravioli. I got a bunch of those packets of flavored tuna and some ramen which are really good when you mix them together. Well it is time for me to hit the hay it has been a long day. I hope you enjoyed reading. Stay tuned for more to come!