Friday, June 27, 2008

TELLuride... Well I'll TELL you what!

June 24, 2008

Well plans change and change they do, My initial plan was to head to Boulder for just the day then make my way to Vail to visit Dan and Katie, However I never made it to Vail that evening and Boulder was just calling me. Turns out Boulder, home of the University of Colorado is just a hop skip and a jump from Denver so the ride was pretty quick and easy. However before I could depart I had to make a stop at the local Kawa dealer to give Mav some much needed TLC. Lately when I had been shifting from first to second I would hear a knocking sound and it was making me a little concerned, I suspected that with all the hard riding I had been doing I had stretched out my chain a little and I would need to tighten it up, a simple task none the less as described in the manual. Well that simple task took all of an hour and a half! Luckily there was a motorcycle safety class going on in the parking lot adjacent to the dealership and the instructors saw my distress and they offered any assistance I needed, which basically was some bigger tools. So with new tools and a shady spot next to the service garage I continued to work my magic with Mav. Around noonish I got on the road and I headed to Golden Colorado home of Coors Brewing for a free tour and some more delicious free samples! But much to my surprise they were not offering tours and I was bummed, no booze and no tour. Onward I move, I make my way further north up awesome hwy 72 to Boulder. On my arrival my hunger pains were too much so I go to the first burger place I could find, The Sink which is on ‘The Hill’ in Boulder. I get a bacon cheese buffalo burger and one of their micro brews…. Mmmm good just want I needed after an arduous morning working on Mav. Now Boulder is a fun town, I really enjoy visiting college campuses on this trip and mountain towns and well Boulder is both of those! It was also a welcomed relief to see more motorcyclists in Boulder, I saw more dual sports loaded down for some adventure akin to mine than any other place I’d been in the US. I walked all over boulder, from the campus to the downtown mall on Pearl street which oddly enough is exactly like the downtown mall in Charlottesville. On my walk I also got a gigantic bowl which I can’t remember the name of it but it’s basically a smoothie you eat with a spoon from a bowl, I saw a lot of people walking around with them and they looked so good I had to stop, another $6 well spent. So more walking and exploring and dodging of the bicycles. If you’ve never been to Boulder you should know that it is such a crazy bicycle friendly town. So there are lanes for cars, then a lane for walking then two lanes for bikes, and everyone rides. It’s a shame more US towns don’t follow in Boulder’s footsteps because their bicycling facilities and parks are really top notch. At this point I realized that I would not be making it to Vail for the evening so I checked into the International Hostel in Boulder and dropped off my things and headed back out, this time to the Walrus, a local watering hole. On my way there I made a stop into a Margaret Ann favorite, the Patagonia store. Although I did not purchase anything, because A.) I spent all my money on my crazy expensive $6 smoothie, and B.) I have barely enough room on my bike for a stick of gum. After some more exploring I headed back to the Hill where I visited Half Fast Subs which my tour book Let’s Go recommended and my old roommate Joe. They have ridiculous subs, mine was a crab meat, guacamole, tomatoes, lettuce and some other stuff concoction, and it was as good as it was ridiculous. They also sell pitchers of long island ice teas, something I did not need giving the altitude I was at, but I had to since I was only in boulder once. After a relaxing evening at Half Fast Subs and some more exploring I headed back to my Hostel where I proceeded to crash.

June 25, 2008

I got kind of an early start from Boulder, the hostel told me I had to be out by 10 so I was up and gone in the AM. I was excited for my ride today since I stayed an extra day in Boulder I had shortened the distance between me and Vail so I had to kill some time exploring Colorado. I checked my map and what do I see but Rocky Mountain National Park. But before I could depart Boulder Mav needed some more TLC and I stopped at a gas station and gave Mav a much needed oil change. Ever since my first oil change, just outside Camp Lejune, Mav had been leaking oil due to the threads on the oil plug being stripped. I had my engine re-drilled and a new screw put in for a hefty penny in Charleston however he continued to leak slowly. My good friend and former VMI roommate Greg recommended that I put some Teflon tape on the screw to help with the slow drip and magic it worked! Because I checked this morning and there was not a spot of oil on the ground. Ok so back to riding, I was headed through the Rocky Mountain National Park which climbs a good 12,000 feet.
The air was cold and going back to my hair dryer analogy with the face mask opened in the desert well when I opened my face mask in the mountains it felt like a freezer blowing on my face. I donned my full riding gear pants, jacket gloves and all and I climbed in elevation. The park is something to see, there is one road through it which runs the ridge line of the Rockies and I followed it for a good 30 miles switchbacking my way up into the clouds. As I climbed I saw more and more snow, and by the time I got to the top the snow drifts were over my head, even taller than most of the RVs driving through the park. I made a ton of stops along the way to take pictures which turned my quick 30 miles into a 2 hour long crawl, but it was well worth it. As I told Dan Katie and Tom that evening over some frosty beverages, today had to of been one of the top rides of the trip! So I got to the top of the Rockies, I played in the snow a little, threw some snowballs at Mav took a good bazillion pictures and it was back on the road. There was a lot of wildlife in the park and I saw a ton of moose, or swamp donkeys as they are sometimes referred to as because they basically chill in the swamp all day long. After leaving the park camera and Mav and me exhausted from the massive amounts of pictures and the lack of oxygen at 12,000 feet I headed to friendlier elevations. I found some awesome forest roads that would cut their way through to the Vail Valley which was my final destination, and more good riding ensued. Again thoughts of Chico Road haunted my brain but the manicured trails through the Rockies and along the Colorado River were something of a dream! They were well marked easily understood and my Garmin recognized all of them! Driving through the Rockies on single track dirt roads up and out of the valleys and along rivers was the kind of riding I had been dreaming about ever since I got a dual sport. I rode for a good 20 miles through stream crossings and gravel switch backs to a town called Radium Colorado which is a rafting outpost in the middle of nowhere on the Colorado River.

Actually there is nothing in this town but a rafting outfitter. I followed the Garmin to a dirt road labeled county road 111 however posted at the junction was a sign that said ‘NO OUTLET’ and I wasn’t going to mess around with any fence cutting and private land, so I looked around for a bit for another road out, none what so ever… I went into the Rafting outfitter and again no one there, I yell out still no one, and I was having thoughts of driving the 20 miles back through the national forest to get to a highway, finally one of the people from the rafting company pops their head out and in a puzzled look asks if I want to go rafting. No but I do want to get to the Vail Valley. Luckily Bria was helpful and she said that just an hour before me there were two guys on mountain bikes who were on their way from Alaska to the southernmost tip of South America, an epic ride none the less! Bria pointed out a small dirt road out of town and luck have it I was just a good 10 miles from Dan and Katie’s. I got the message from Dan that he and Katie were meeting up after work with a friend of theirs to get some more frosty beverages, exactly what I wanted after a long day on the trails. I meet up with them at the Riverwalk in Edwards a town just outside of Vail. I met their friend Tom and Katie brought Isla the coolest most well behaved chocolate lab retriever mix I have ever met. Tom like Katie and Dan is also Architecting in Vail, an incestuous industry as they refer to it as, since they all work for different companies yet all seem to know each other. Good company and good beer, is exactly what I was in need of after being on the road for so long. One drink turned into couple more and the altitude started setting in, so we left my bike at Tom’s office and I headed back to Katie and Dan’s and crashed. Tomorrow starts my adventure to Telluride, and more mountain riding!

June 26, 2008

Let me first start off by saying I was awoken this morning to a lady banging pots and pans together, and no it wasn’t the town crazy making her morning music, apparently a lone bear stumbled into the camp and was rummaging around for some deliciousness in the trunk of my neighbor John’s car. In any rate I did not have any food in my tent so no bear bothered me, that and I was completely and utterly exhausted, and no not even a bear could get me out of my sleeping bag. So that is this morning, yesterday though was another epic riding day. I am convinced that the whole national scenic highway and byway thing is completely and utterly useless in Colorado because every road you drive on here is the most scenic road yet. I have yet to find a bad road to drive down in Colorado. It used to be when I was rolling through new Mexico and parts of Texas and Mississippi you would see nothing for hours and hours and it was pretty boring, but here my hand and foot never get a rest from the clutch gas brake combination. In and out of the turns up and down hills its awesome I have so much fun here. So now I’m in telluride and another great town I might add, I have met so many people here who basically came here for vacation and just picked up and stayed here, and I would too, that is if I didn’t have a great job waiting for me back home. So I rode from Vail valley on highway 24 which eventually becomes highway 82 and I went through Independence Pass which takes you to Aspen. Usually Independence Pass is closed due to snow but it was open however there was still a massive amount of snow. I crossed through the pass at about 12,000 + feet and in doing so I crossed the continental divide… again… I might have forgot to mention that I crossed it when I was going through Rocky Mountain National Park a few days before. I stopped in Aspen for a bit, drove around explored the town, its a lot different than Vail however the money is still there. I spotted a couple Ferraris, and I parked good ole Mav next to some of them to take pictures, because of course we all know Mav is just as great as a $500,000 sports car. So more riding, when I left Aspen I really dropped in elevation and I was getting a little tired, I guess it was due to my very early start which I don’t normally get. As I dropped in elevation it got warmer and I had to shed the full riding gear that I was wearing. I made it to town just at the foothills of the mountains leading up to Telluride called Montrose and I stocked up on some necessary provisions, I was running out of my main course of Ramen and tuna fish and beef jerky. With the necessary provisions I was ready to take on more mountains, the ride up into Telluride was as amazing as everyone has told me it would be, and to add to its amusingness my camera battery decided to die on me right as I was getting to the good stuff. Approaching Telluride I was getting pretty excited, well let me TELL you about TELLuride, it’s a town of towns, I used this description and analogy to describe the people and atmosphere to Margaret Ann last night. Now if you don’t know bars in Charlottesville then this description will do you no good. Ok so the Telluride atmosphere can best be described in the tipsy text message I sent to MA, which goes like this “It’s very mountainy, chill like Virginian on a Sunday night, mature like Zyde Co when it first opened, but with some class like Michael’s Bistro. Now people I wish I could continue my raving review of Telluride however there are mountains and waterfalls and dirt roads to be explored. I will have to continue this at a later date. But I must say, everyone deserves a visit to Telluride!

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

onward and upward in elevation!

June 23, 2008
Another morning another pre ride bike inspection. As I was giving the bike a once over checking the chain, tires, screws, ect I noticed something I didn’t want to notice. One of the metal brackets holding my cases on had sheared off. The actual metal had broken free from the weld so great another trip to the welding shop… the bike was still rideable so I hit up the campground office checked the yellow pages and I was off to the nearest town Salida Colorado to get it welded back together. The welding took all of a couple minutes and I was back on the road. I suppose it must have broken free from all the hard riding I had done the day before in the Carson national forest. But really now can I not go one day without something breaking! This morning I rode to a town called Canon City after leaving Salida. Now one thing I have come to realization is that anywhere you drive in Colorado is awesome, whether you’re driving to a welding shop or the next town over. I followed highway 50 for about 60 miles or so and it was a good ride along a river, I think it was the Arkansas River, lots of twisties and lots of fun accelerating and declaring through the turns! Another fun part of the ride was all the rafting and kayakers out taking on the white water. I had to stop a bunch of times to take pictures, and finally I realized that I would never make it to Denver that day if I didn’t stop taking so many pictures. I got into Canon City and I was hungry so I found a spot with a bunch of other motorcycles and I parked in the mix of them. Turns out the group of bikers I happened to park by were on their way to Sturgis which didn’t begin until August so needless to say they were just out exploring the US as I was. After chatting it up with some of the biker gang they suggested I take an undeveloped road called highway 67 over the mountains to get to Colorado springs. This particular highway was just the kind of dual sporting I was looking for, it was a well marked out gravel road about 30 miles long which snaked its way through the Rockies. Tons of switchbacks and no guard rails what so ever. There were also a lot of very cool one lane bridges. Riding continued like this for an hour or so, and I finally arrived at the end of the dirt road in a mining town just outside of Colorado Springs. However as I got to the town I began to fell little drops of rain so I pulled over and donned my full rain gear, except for the waterproof liners to my pants which resulted in a very cold and a very wet ride the rest of the day. They are just such a hassle to put on and I didn’t think it would have rained as much as it did. I continued on to ride to the summit of Pikes Peak because I really wanted to drive up it but when I got there they park ranger said that it was snowing and hailing at the top and they wouldn’t let me drive my bike up there. So I had to nix that idea, oh well I will just have to find another fourteener to go up! Since the rain was getting worse I decided to just bypass Colorado Springs and head to Denver where I would be staying with my friend Amy from UVA. As soon as I got within Denver city limits the rain completely stopped and it actually got pretty warm. Denver, another very cool city to go to, I am sad though I did not get to spend as much time here but I must move on. Amy took me too a really cool pizza place, which has a very distinctive evil theme. Instead of numbers to know when your pizza is ready they give you some sort of space craft toy which basically took up the entire table, the pizza was really good and they had Coors Original on tap which my friend Becca got me absolutely hooked on however they don’t serve it very many places. Well tomorrow its off to more Colorado exploring. I’ll be heading to Boulder and I may even check out the Coors Factory.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Dunes and More Dunes!

June 20, 2008

So today was a driving day not many sights to be seen. I got a late start from the hostel since I spent most the morning planning my route for the next week. I decided to make a big change my original plan and I want to spend more time in the mountains, seeing that I’m getting a little just a little bit sick of the desert for now. So as of today I began heading north to Colorado! I have a laundry list of things to do up there and I cannot wait to get into the mountains! It’s already pretty cold where I am now. So I left the hostel and I headed north. I passed through the White Sands Missile Range which takes up almost ¾ the length of New Mexico. I made sure not to make any deviations from my route like I did in Texas whilst passing through the missile range. I did not need any incoming to make my trip more adventurous. I did have one stop for today, and that was the White Sands National Monument. Its absolutely amazing there, it’s like someone took the most perfect white sand beaches from Hawaii and put them in the middle of the desert minus the water and the palm trees and plus the heat. It was an awesome drive through the park, it’s a small park but amazing at the same time. It is better though to go in the evenings to see the sun sets however it just wasn’t in my schedule. There were a lot of people there sledding down the dunes, which looked like fun but I couldn’t find the room to put a sled on Mav. The one downside to White Sands is that part of the park is on unpaved roads which are basically just sand, and one thing with motorcycles and sand is that they do not mix well. Mav liked the sand so much in one parking lot that he laid down in it on my ankle. So white sands national monument was pretty nice to drive though, I did one hike into the desert but the heat was just too much and I abbreviated it slightly. The rest of the day I spent riding north along the Rio Grande which was a welcome relief from the desert heat again. All along the river is tons of chili pepper farms, tons of them, and a good number of onion farms, and for those of you who know me next to motorcycles in the sand I hate onions just as much! The chili farms were pretty cool to see they were just acres and acres of perfectly aligned trees which looked like they were in a lake because here the farmers basically flood the fields to irrigate their trees. I made camp tonight along the Rio Grande at a park called something something starting with a P on the dam. It’s another New Mexico State park which is obviously next to a dam. Tomorrow morning I’m getting up early to make my way further north. My first stop is a town called, get this… Truth or Consequences, yes I didn’t believe it myself, but I will surely take a picture for proof!

June 21, 2008

Let me tell you about the best $8 I have ever spent… So I arose from a great nights sleep probably the best I’ve had at a campground yet seeing that it was nice a cool last night. I pack up hop on ole Mav and I head out. I exit the campground and I pull on to the Hwy 187 and I pull the clutch in and I shift into a might highway merging third gear and much to my surprise there is no shifter there. That is odd, I glance down in hopes that my foot just slipped but no, sadly no. My shifter is hanging there by the last bead of weld on it so I swiftly pull an evasive maneuver and get off the highway and I roll the bike into a parking lot. I dismount to inspect my new damages and yes my worst fear was imagined, I had sheared off my shift lever, and it was no longer there. Ok don’t panic I’ve been in worse situations this week. After inspecting the damage some more I come to the realization that I must have damaged the weld from the multiple incidents that Mav had been laid down in the past week. So I think about what my options are. I recently got a new towing company so I could always get them to tow me to a motorcycle supply shop, but where and I only have a limited range on how far I can be towed. I could have the part over nighted to me and I could stay at the campground again. I could use the JB weld I brought, glue the shifter back together and hope it gets me to the next town, or I could put everything I have in a bag and start walking home. Ok no to that last idea, so I call my new motorcycle towing company, and the guy on the other line actually knows what he’s talking about albeit he talks a lot but he was helpful. So he finds me a towing company that will pick me up and take me to the next town which get this, the name of the town is ‘Truth or Consequences’ So I get on the blackberry and I start to look for motorcycle supply stores in Truth or Consequences, and there is one, its called Crazy Richards Motorcycle Supply, and well this crazy fella keeps some crazy hours because he didn’t show up to open up shop until two hours after his recorded message says the open. So I think to myself ok I could put all my eggs in the basket for this Richard dude or I could possibly find a place that could weld my shifter back together. Meanwhile I must add, the parking lot I pull into is none other than an onion packaging warehouse, so I’m waiting there over an hour next to tons and tons of onions, my worst nightmare had come true. So the towing company arrives, and I tell him my story he’s helpful and he says that the Richard fella is not the most reliable kind of guy, and he suggest a welding place that he passed on his way out which just opened. So we get into T&C, that’s what the locals call the town for short, and the towing guy drops me off at John’s welding shop, and a fine shop indeed. I take my shifter to John and he just smiles at me and says sure I can fix this all my boys used to ride dirt bikes. I said all I need is to get me to the next town and he replied with a ‘son this isn’t just going to get you to the next town its going to get you around the world’ and with that I placed rest of my trip into John’s hands and before the towing guy got the paperwork all finished for me to sign john had made me a like new shifter, and all for just eight bucks! So what could have been a two day disaster and cost me hundreds of dollars turned into a minor glitch in my ride for the day. The rest of the day was flawless infact it was some of the best riding I had done in a while. I was heading north towards Santa Fe where I would be staying the night and I passed through a town called Socorro, and I found the first authentic Mexican place I could find and I had the most amazing burrito ever at Sophia’s Cafe! In no time I was back on the road I followed hwy 60 for a good long while and it ran along side two paralle Burlington Northern Santa Fe train tracks. Let me tell you there was TONS of trains out today too, I saw double stacked trains, liquit cars, some sort of dry heap cars, everything and anything and it was cool to see them all and how long they were, it was rediculious. Since I was in the middle of no where i could see the beginning and end of each train and they stretched for miles! The ride to santa fe was such a relief, I was at altitude now and it was much cooler, almost in the upper 60s. No santa fe is quite a town, it used to be where all the wealthy Californians would go to, to escape the summer heat. It’s a ski town and a desert town all in one. There are also a lot of religious influences there with the different churches and missions which began there. There are tons and tons of restaurants, art galleriers, and shops, touristy but not at the same time, it had a sense of class to it. I walked around Santa Fe for a good couple hours got some amazing dinner at this italina place and I headed to Hyde Memorial State Park in the Santa Fe National Forest, where I am now typing this by fireside, yup that’s right tonight I made my first camp fire. So far this is the only campground that has allowed firest due to all the desert camp grounds being under water restrictions and they have a big fear of forest fires. Tomorrow should be another good riding day in the mountains as I head further north and on into Colorado!

June 22, 2008

Ah relief… the mountains finally. So as of today I have left the arid desert and have moved to higher elevations. Tonight I am residing in Monarch Colorado which is about 90 miles north of the New Mexican Colorado border. But let me tell you the ride today through Northern New Mexico was amazing, and I cannot say enough about Santa Fe, what an amazing city. When I left my campsite I decided to keep heading up the mountain I was on which was located in Carson National Forest. So I headed up the mountain lots of switch backs and lots of cyclists pumping away up the hill. So I cruised for about 12 miles or so with some amazing views of the city of Santa Fe below. When I got to the top turns out there was a ski resort up there. Santa Fe Ski that is, and it was the first federally operated ski resort I have ever seen in my life. Since the mountain resides in a national forest the ski resort is therefore operated by the national park service which I thought was kind of interesting. Also I should add that today was the first day I saw snow since I was in Colorado this past spring. All the mountains in New Mexico and Colorado were all snow capped, which was pretty awesome to see. After cruising down the mountain I did one more drive through Santa Fe and it was on to the highway. Today’s ride was the mountain ride I was waiting for, and being Sunday there were tons of motorcycles out as well. My route today zig zagged its way through the mountains of northern New Mexico and through tons of small mountain towns. I was getting so high up into the mountains that it began resembling the alps or something, not what you would expect from New Mexico. There were acres and acres of green fields with creeks running through them back dropped with gigantic snowcapped mountains. I was half expecting the entire Von Trapp family to come running over the next ridge to the tune of doe a deer. As I was snaking my way through the Carson National Forest… yes I know this thing went on forever, I kept seeing signs for ‘Forest Road’ and they were very enticing dirt roads to say the least so I pulled over at one checked that it was on the Garmin I plotted out a loop that would bring me back to the highway and I headed into the woods for some good dual sport riding. This was must different than the Chico Road adventure I had the week earlier, although the thought of something happening lingered in my mind for a bit. The forest roads were soft dirt as opposed to jagged rocks, and it was much much cooler among the trees and furthermore I didn’t have to worry about a fence being locked or anything because this was all public property. Well the ride through the woods was everything and more, very relaxing, Mav only went down once on a steep descent with a lot of loose rocks. After about eight or so miles in the woods I met back up with the highway and I proceeded on my way. All through the morning and afternoon I kept seeing this blue Kawasaki Versys which was loaded down with tons of gear. So I kept bumping into this other adventurer and at one scenic overlook that I stopped at to take some pictures he stopped too, and turns out we had a lot in common. The guys name was Stew and he was from Alberta Canada. He had been on the road for about a month and a half now and had quit his job got a bike and had been touring around the southwestern American states since then. He told me about some good places to go around Colorado that had had been. It was ironic also because I was asking him how long he was going to be traveling for and he said that he had a wedding to go to in august so he was ending his trip at the wedding which is exactly what I am doing too. I’ve got a wedding in august that I have to be back for which seems like a convenient end date. So we exchanged some more stories, and it was interesting because Stew had one more piece of gear that I definitely did not have, strapped to back of his bike in a waterproof bag was a guitar! So back on the road, I passed through a town called Taos New Mexico, which I wish I could have stopped in but I had to get to my big destination for the day before the park closed, which was Great Sand Dunes National Park! So my ride to the park was quite a rough one, the weather had kicked in and the rain and wind was relentless. Luckily my Joe Rocket pants and Jacket kept me nice a dry. Great Sands was pretty different than White Sands. Great Sands lies at the base of snow capped mountains and in front of them is a huge river which to my surprise you actually have to walk through the river to get to the dunes; you’d think that the national park service would put a bridge over the river. The dunes were utterly gigantic, I wanted to walk to the top of them, but it was a good 2 hour hike to the top of the dunes. From the dunes I headed to further north to Monarch Colorado where I bedded down for the night.

Friday, June 20, 2008

From the Caves to the Mountains and Nothing in Between

June 18, 2008

Although this may sound like an oxymoron, but today was a very uneventful eventful day. Aside from the good 12 hours of rejuvenation sleep that I got in my deluxe accommodations at the Motel 6 of Carlsbad New Mexico I was very active. I was also in the dark for much of the day as well realistically and figuratively. So I woke up, packed up my belongings which went about much quicker this morning since I didn't have a tent, sleeping bag ect ect and I headed out to load up ole Maverick. However Mav was looking at little different this morning, a bit to flat for my liking and low and behold that front tire was flat yet again, and this time I was out of CO2. So I pulled out my 2nd most faithful piece of travel equipment, my blackberry and I proceeded to call MoTow which is my motorcycle towing and repair service.


So I finagled with the good folks at MoTow for a good 2 hours only for them to come to the realization that they really don't offer any service to motorcycling folks stranded in Carlsbad New Mexico. Needless to say for much of the day I was in the dark as to whether or not I would actually be able to fix my bike here in Carlsbad and MoTow would be able to find a towing company to pick me up this far out! Thus I opened the first phonebook I could find went to motorcycles and there it was Alan's Truck and Cycle Supply Shop of Carlsbad New Mexico. I called back MoTow told em that I found a place and they made the arrangements and I hobbled my way 3 miles down to the road to Alan's. I had to plan my route very strategically to get to Alan's it was just three miles but I could only go for about a couple minutes or so until the air leaked out of my tires and I would have to refill again. First I had to roll my bike a block to the first gas station filled the tire with air, and I raced out of there the next station I saw was in the Wal-Mart parking lot but crap I got stuck at a red light. When green came around I was flat and I had to slowly make my way to the air. Ok good I could make it for another couple minutes. The good people (more good people unlike MoTow) at New Mexico Department of Transportation must have been watching me because they gave me greens the rest of the way to Alan's. Good people there, at Alan's that is, not so good people at MoTow. Now Alan's is something like I've never seen before, it was like a virtual Wal-Mart of everything truck and motorcycle related. They had it all from the tire arns I needed in the event I flat out again, to the Teflon tape necessary to keep my oil drain plug from leaking. I was in heaven and they promised to have Maverick back up and running within the hour! So I went for a stroll in downtown Carlsbad, not much to see there.


I stopped by the local visitor's center and got the info I needed for my visit to Carlsbad Caverns. Again much to my surprise I had missed the last trip down to the cave. However if I got there by 5 o'clock sharp I would be able to make the last elevator that takes you down into the 'Big Room'. So after speaking with everyone at Alan's telling them about my trip and where I was going I headed off to the caves. I got there just in time to make the last elevator down, and it was nice because I virtually had the entire place to myself.

I was pretty amazing inside the caverns. They are absolutely huge, you can fit somewhere around ten 747's inside the main cave. Something I found interesting was that everywhere you looked it was incredibly colorful however the national park service uses no colored lights, it's merely the reflection off the stalactites and stalagmites. I got some really great pictures inside the caves which you may just see. Also the cave was a welcomed retreat from the desert heat; it stays a cool 56 degrees year round. So I tour around the cave for a bit, to walk the entire thing is about a mile and a half loop. Then the park rangers start to usher me out since they would be closing soon for the bats. The bats are an entirely different story, and a disappointing one at that.

So every evening in the summer millions of bats leave the entrance of the Carlsbad Caverns cave all at once it's a pretty amazing spectacle and they shoot up out of the cave in a gigantic spiral into the night to eat moths and other insects. Well the bats are very unpredictable, yes they will leave the cave but how many and at what time no one really knows. So I get there at the prescribed 6:30 time as the park rangers suggested and I sat and sat and sat and sat some more.



They were supposed to come out sometime around 7:30 to a little after 8, well none came at 8, then 8:15 or so rolled around and a trickle of bats came out, nothing very impressive, when 8:30 arrived I had had enough, bats were coming out one by one at this point not the promised 100 foot tall black spiraling tornado. So I got up and left as many other peopled did as well. Wow, to drive all this way and not see A.) the entire cave and B.) Those darn bats. Oh well maybe on our next stop of Roswell New Mexico we will see some Aliens, likely I think not.


June 19, 2008


Today… Yup today was a good day of riding, why you may ask, because I finally got out of the desert. Funny I grew up in one of the most arid countries on the planet and I cannot stand the heat. So as the saying goes if you can't take the heat get out of the kitchen well this kitchen I speak of is at 8,000 feet of pure cool altitude goodness. Well since I got into my campsite so late I didn't realize where I was actually staying, I woke up and it was amazing out. I picked a site right on Brantley Lake in New Mexico. The park was not very full as usual with camp grounds during the summer in the desert, however there were some unusual visitors to this particular camp ground. So I was walking to the bath house to brush my teeth and as I'm walking in there is a guy walking out wearing an orange jumpsuit with the words 'New Mexico State Prisoner'. Very well then, I guess this was New Mexico's version of prisoners to campers program or something. He was polite we exchanged a friendly hello; all the while I was thinking man this guy is going to shank me.

Anyways I rush in brush my teeth and get out, after further investigation I see that there are other of his orange jumpsuit friends walking around the camp ground and they are doing general maintenance and cleaning stuff up. I was shocked though for the six or so of them just wandering around the campground there was just one guard. Well no shanking occurred and since I'm tying this right now I made it out safely! So I took it slow this morning and I gave Maverick some much needed TLC. I took off my boxes and propped up the rear wheel to inspect the chain and make sure it was the proper tightness, I also oiled the chain and checked the tires, brakes, fluid levels, ect ect. After those tough days in the Texas desert Mav needed some looking after. I was on the road around 10ish, first stop Roswell New Mexico! Well I have always been very good with filling up the gas tank and well it had been a day since Mav had eaten so I calculated that I would have enough fuel to get me to the first town from the campground, well my math must have been off because I had to switch the tank to the reserve tank which only has about 40 miles of capacity, and I checked my information machine also known as the Garmin and it ironically said 40 miles to next fuel station. Ok then that put me on edge a little bit I was really riding on the cusp of hitchhiking through the desert in search of the illusive red plastic fuel can to fill up Mav. So there I was riding on fumes and hopes and prayers that I would make it to that gas station and that it was open! Thankfully the fuel started giving out right as I was pulling into the gas station and the engine stalled and I rolled myself right to the gas pump. Wow that was a close call! I was sweating more from the irony that I had just enough fuel that I rolled in than from the 102 degree heat! Another close call… hopefully my last of the day, however this was not true. Ok so today was planned as an easy chill day, not too much riding, so first stop Roswell, for two reasons, A.) Roswell has a bunch of alien stuff and it's so touristy that I just couldn't come all this way and not at least say oh hey I was there.


I went to the International Alien Research Library and Museum. I did not take the tour just bought the postcards took my pictures and left. B.) Roswell has one of the largest motorcycle dealerships in New Mexico and low and behold they service and sell Kawasakis! So I make a stop in to get new CO2 and new riding gloves since my beloved Fox DirtPaws succumbed to the desolate Big Bend. Good people there, very helpful and one of the store girls recommended me to go to Sierra Blanca, an awesome mountain at about 11,000 feet from which you can see everything. So I get back out to the parking lot to pack up Mav and head to the mountains, I mount the bike put it in neutral press the ignition…. Nothing, no turn over, nothing. I try again, nothing; check all the necessarys, nothing. Thankfully though Mav decides to break down in the one place I know he can be all fixed up. I assume there must be some short with the battery or maybe the lights were left on who knows. So I go to the shop and ask for a battery tester, the guy comes out helps me take off the side panels and seat to get at the battery and wow this just goes to show you how smart I am. The screws on the battery had come loose, most likely from the intense riding I had been doing in the desert the past couple days. But the shop guy did a full check on my battery and everything looked good, I tightened the screws and Mav was back up and rolling. Wow was I happy. OK on with the adventure. I headed then up into the mountains to Lincoln New Mexico site of possibly some of the bloodiest fighting back in the Wild West. Same place Billy the Kid used to hang out with his band of outlaws.

Lincoln is also the setting for the popular western, 'Young Guns'. As one quote goes, Lincoln was so dangerous that the town Preacher said that he buried 31 men one month and just one of them succumbed to natural causes. Onward I head. Next stop Ruidoso, an awesome ski town where Sierra Blanca is located. I spend a good amount of time just checking out Ruidoso it's also a big casino town due to all the Indian reservations surrounding it. So I make my way to Sierra Blanca it's a 12 mile ride to the top and I get all of 3 miles and a park ranger stops me, and informs me that the Lincoln National Forest is closed due to extreme fire danger, since they haven't had rain in a long time. Bummer. So I press on back to my next stop, Cloudcroft, another small mountain town. On my way there I climb from the desert floor which was a good 107 degrees and within ten minutes I climb about 5,000 feet and I can feel the nice crisp cool mountain air. Wow what a relief from the sweltering heat of the desert that was! On my way up the mountain I also pass through New Mexico's one and only tunnel.


At the top I stop in at Western's which is the only restaurant open but a good one at that, lots of character there, I see two other guys there on dual sports from Texas and Colorado just touring around for a couple days, we exchange stories over a couple frosty beverages and they tell me all the good places to ride. After a filling meal I hop back on my bike and head down the mountain a ways to a hostel I had read about in Let's Go (great guide by the way for those on a budget).



I get to the hostel and I'm greeted by the friendly owner. Since the forest is closed now there are no hikers allowed in the park so business is a little slow. No worries, the place is great and they even have wireless! http://www.cloudcrofthostel.com/ so if you're ever in the area of Cloudcroft New Mexico I highly suggest you take a gander and maybe stay a night. So those are my adventures for today I haven't quite decided what I'm doing tomorrow, we shall see where the road takes me.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Big Bend and Adventures on Chico Road


The route so far:

June 15, 2008

The way you can tell if a southwestern town has cell phone reception or not is to see if the population is at least 1,000 people, if not then your SOL, and you definitely won’t be making any calls from there. It wasn’t until yesterday and today that I was without service. Oh to be cut off completely how unheard of! It took some getting used to for me but by this afternoon I had accepted the fact that the phone should be put away because it’s not going to be working any time soon. The drive from Lost Maples to Big Bend national park was another epic day! All the lushness of Lost Maples quickly gave way to desolate desert, and along with that came sweltering heat. I made it an early morning for once, and I was on the road by a quarter after 9. It was very cool in the morning but like I said that quickly gave way to a really dry heat, so hot that when I put up my face shield it felt like someone had turned a hair dryer on right in my face. For the first leg of my journey I traveled to Del Rio Texas which is a border town with a huge aqua blue reservoir which basically keeps the town going. If it wasn’t for that lake I’d be very surprised if there was anything out there at all. Once I got to Del Rio, I took hwy 90 all the way for a good 200 miles until I got to the Big Bend park entrance. 90 was a good road, very sparse but good, there were hardly any cars on the road and even less gas stations, which made me a little nervous but then I thought back to the fact that the KLR has a monster gas tank and I can go a good 300 + miles between fillips. On my way down 90 I saw a sign for a visitor’s center and above that was another sign advertising free wireless, so of course I had to make a stop because I had been meaning to post all the previous days on this site.

When I got there in the parking lot I saw another loaded down bike, it was a Triumph Tiger belonging to a teacher named Chris who was of course off for the summer from teaching and he was traveling around the US. He came from Mississippi and being that there is only one way into Big Bend we kept running into each other at each stop. At one gas stop I saw two loaded down BMW Adventure Tourer Bikes, and it really got me excited for Big Bend and all the back roads. They had spent the past week on the back roads of the park and it showed! The park itself claims only 5 miles of paved roads, that’s actually not true because I drove down a good 26 miles of them nice a paved. But that’s beside the point the park is absolutely amazing and completely empty. Chris and I were really the only ones there I think for the entire 800,000 acres. When I got into the park I decided to do a little dual sporting and I found an isolated campsite which you can only get to if you have a ‘high clearance 4x4 vehicle’ my bike is neither high clearance, nor does it even have 4 tires. None the less its what the KLR was designed for so I took an amazing 7 mile gravel road to my campsite where I am now typing this, no running water, no electricity, not even another person for miles. It’s a good thing I haven’t seen ‘the hills have eyes’ or I’d be scared out of my mind right now. Well it’s getting dark now and I have to plan my route for tomorrow. Take care everyone!

June 16, 2008

A coyote just ran through my campsite, and I did not invite him to dinner. Well let’s see it’s my second night here in Big Bend, and it will be my last. The heat is so oppressive here I cannot even use my hair dryer analogy to explain the extremeness of the heat! I have since switched campgrounds by recommendation of the park ranger to a site at a more higher elevation which is much cooler. Today was a pretty epic day though in regards to riding. I did some serious dual sporting today on the Big Bend back roads. I also saw some hot springs, the Rio Grande and our good neighbors to the south, Mexico! I broke the day up into two parts. Since it was so hot last night I did not get much sleep however the only cure for the heat is to get on my bike and ride. So I was promptly packed up and riding before 8 this morning.


I fueled up since I knew there was oh say zero gas stations in the Big Bend backcountry, however I think in between when I fueled up and left my camp site I misplaced my beloved mountain bike turned motorcycle gloves! My grey Fox DirtPaws have seen some real stuff ad sadly they will spend the rest of their lives somewhere out in the desert of Texas. So the riding was rough and tough today lots of rocks lots of heat, lost of sand, but it was the kind of riding that I specifically got my mightily KLR for. In addition I had to pack a full gallon and a half of water with me because in the unlikely event that his mightiness may fail I would have to hike out, because obliviously cell phones don’t work in the backcountry and for the entire 800,000 acres there is maybe 6 visitors, plus or minus three illegal’s who may have crossed the border in the time that I was typing this.
So backcountry riding was fun, I had one trying part where I actually thought I may have to ditch the bike and start walking, there was one hill that was just a bit too rocky and sandy for the likes of the mighty and the front tire slipped out from under me and the bike leaned to the left in my despair to catch my balance bike and all went down. It wasn’t a bad fall and it was very low speed so nothing was broken. I got up picked the bike up and tried pushing it up the hill but that I came to find out is next to impossible to push a 400 pound bike with a full 6 gallons of fuel and over 100 pounds in gear. So I sat there for a while drank some water then I did the most reasonable thing I could do, I rolled it backwards down to a flat part moved the nuisance rocks from the hill and I rode up again with no problem. Lesson learned, if at first you don’t succeed start way from the beginning.

After my adventure in the backcountry I was getting hungry so I made camp, took a nap and headed back out again to explore the rest of the park. This time I took what is called an “auto road” which is basically a dirt road less treacherous than the backcountry roads, it was fun and I saw a lot of the park that I hadn’t seen in the morning. On my ride back I got caught in a freak rain storm and I didn’t have any of my rain gear with me but I actually did a little rain dance prior to my leaving because it was so ridiculously hot out that I really didn’t care if it rained. And that brings me to where I am now, sitting here with the coyote. Tomorrow I leave the desert and head to New Mexico to Carlsbad Caverns. Thankfully the caves stay a nice 56 degrees all year round, which will be a welcomed relief!

June 17, 2008

As if today could not be any worse… well worse is a bad way to describe the events that unfolded today, I’d like to refer to them simply as trials by fire, or the general need for adventure and that need was fulfilled tenfold in the past 24 hours. Big Bend last night was nice it was the coolest camp ground I’d stayed in yet due to the altitude I was at. I awoke refreshed and energized and ready to take on the light dual sport riding that I had planned on for the day.

In any rate I left around a quarter after 8 and I took the main road Hwy 118 (another scenic Michelin drive might I add) out of Big Bend to a small town called Kent, well you couldn’t not even call it small it was just a gas station and grocery store off I-10, so I stop in fill up on some water and I head to Hwy 2424. 2424 was a good road for about 10 miles it was rolling hills in the middle of the desert with the occasional cow eating god knows what because I really didn’t see any grass. So my map tells me that some of the roads between Kent and Guadalupe Mountains national park are unpaved, just the kind of roads l like the good dual sport kind…. Well little did the map mention but these unpaved roads really were unpaved, I don’t think a car or even man on a horse has seen some of these roads in months! However my faithful Garmin told me to follow the pink line through the desert. One thing the good folks at Garmin forgot to do might I add was say if these roads were public or private, so I found myself at a couple gates the first 20 miles or so into the unpaved part and I would simply open the gate and keep on driving, well soon the roads start to dwindle in quality and identifiableness, and soon I found myself not on a road at all but like I said before following the little man on the motorcycle on the Garmin following the pink line. So follow I did I mean what’s a little adventure.

I press on, gate after gate, and road after road, none of which are marked. One particular road which I followed when 2424 ended was Chico road, and Chico road was not very Chico friendly. It disappeared on me oh say four or five times and I just sort of drove and bounced my way through the desert and cacti until my motorcycle man found his pink line again. All the while I was thinking to myself as I was going through these gates, what if one of them is locked. Because a good two summers ago I worked on a ranch and we locked all our gates, made sure of it, didn’t want any trespassers. So sure enough I was too far to turn back and I arrive at a barely visible road in the sweltering desert and the gate is pad locked hard and fast. I do not utter any explicative’s, I simply walk around the fence line for a bit to find an opening… no such opening. I look at the lock, I try some simple combinations, 1111, or 2222, or 1234, even a 0000. To no avail my lock picking skills were useless. I then look for a weak spot in the fence, its old and rusty but there are none, so I go against everything in my book and I get out my always faithful Leatherman, the best and most amazing graduation present ever, and I cut part of the barb wire and ride my bike through, however I do this will all good intentions, I mean I was in survivor mode, what would bear do in these situations!?!?! I was nice though and I left a note apologizing and I found some wire and patched up the fence as best as I could. No bovine would be getting through there any time soon! Ok so I ride on, 8 miles here 3 miles here, a turn here a wrong turn there, it goes on like this for a good 3 hours. So I’m rolling down this hill maybe a bit too fast and I hit some rocks and the front end gets real wobbly on me, and flat feeling… oh no flat feeling that’s not very good. I quickly shift down as fast as possible and come to a complete stop shut off the bike and to my surprise, or well shock yes my first flat, and on my new Avon Gripsters! Ok so I can fix this I got the AeroStitch tool kit complete with patches CO2 and all, I’m ready bring on your worst. So I look at it squeeze the tire, no air coming out, no rocks or punctures or anything… So what must be the problem?

The explanation as to why my Gripsters went flat is too long and technical and if you wish to know you may email or ask me later. In any event I got out these cool little CO2 cartridges and I filled my tire right back up, easy as pie! And the ride continues… More gates, more LOCKED gates, and I do the same, cut hole, leave note, and patch up… I think total I had to go through five of these locked suckers. The last one was a real four letter word. I get all the way there meanwhile the tire went flat three more times I was down to my last two CO2 canisters, GPS says I have just 0.9 miles ok I can make this just slow and steady and I’ll get to the highway… and Highway I arrive at! Wow I was so happy however there lied in front of me the meanest of all gates that I saw that day, I wish now I had taken a picture of it, it was ugly looking I think it had a total of seventeen locks on it, this was the kind of gate that they use at fort Knox or something, I mean the cows that were behind this gate must make the kind of milk that’s not really milk at all but the stuff they use to make crystal with. Ok so gate is huge and foreboding and on either side I can’t just cut out a piece like I had been doing because it was a rock wall on both sides, I sit there for a minute oh I forgot to mention all the while I’m trying to out run the storm of all storms. The clouds are black the wind is gusting, you get the picture. So I walk around the gate some more I look at it I glare at it maybe my glare will make it open, no such luck. I then look back at the one side of the gate and the rocks look loose but movable and the fence deteriorated and crappy. So like all other gates I simply cut away but the problem was I was right on the highway and I didn’t want anyone to see me doing my dastardly yet necessary deeds. So I cut quickly and I move all these big rocks, it would be tough I would have to use all my motorcycle riding skills that I have yet attainted to get Maverick (fyi I gave my bike that name, it fits, the bike likes it) through. I don’t have a picture of this because I was trying to rush through and get out of there as quickly as possible. So I rev the engine throw it in mighty mountain climbing never fail first gear and I ride through the 2 foot opening with all the loose gravel, and I make it through! Success!! I have done it, however on the other side was not so good because it was a drop off into a drainage ditch and to keep my bike from plummeting to a sure grave where I know it would never come out from I rolled to the left the ground gave way and the bike and all toppled over, never fear to the people reading this who care for me health and safety, Maverick and I went down a good 5 plus times on this day alone, this was just one more, and after I got on the paved road Maverick went down another 2 times, more to come on these. So anyways Bike is down I’m on the side of the highway people driving by, oh great what a site this is, luckily I’m in the middle of the Guadalupe mountains so there is not as many people driving by mostly truckers and old people on vacation. So I’m down a nice man in his horse trailer passes and sees me circles back and I just tell him I was lost but I found the highway and I pointed to the ground. He just laughed and gave me a good luck thumbs up! Ok so Maverick is back up, a little dusty a little scratched, but still kicking, actually a lot dusty, and mostly the scratches were on me from riding through all the cacti. So I get on the highway, just 3 easy miles to the visitors center and then the campground, get to the visitors center, and luck have it huge storm is rolling in, I have been in big bend the past couple nights no showers I reek of everything, I don’t have any clean clothes so I decided to make the hour drive to Carlsbad and get a hotel. Yes I know I said I wasn’t going to stay in any this entire trip but I need a couple recharges you know.

I get on the highway, and well the rain is coming down, yet its still a blistering thousand degrees out for some reason, and on top of it all I don’t know if any of you know it but the Guadalupe Mountains specifically Hwy 180 which I was traveling on is known for its high winds, really high winds. I get on the bike the wind blows me over yes it blew bike me and all over, that’s some strong wind! Back up and riding, get about half way there the wind is almost blowing me off the highway, and the front end gets wobbly again, oh no not again. I pull over at the first refuge I can find and I get my last two CO2 cartridges out, I put them on the ground do a little dance and prayer vigil that they work and I fill up the front tire one last time. If this doesn’t work Maverick will have to ride me home. Success! Looks like I’ve got someone on my side, yup its those guys at AeroStitch who made my awesome tire fixer kit! Ok back up and riding, but the wind is just way too strong so I pull over to let some cars pass because at this point I was going about 20 mph, I pull over and again, wind blows me and bike over into the guard rail, awesome! And in front of all the passersby.

None of whom stopped to help this time. In any event I am getting really great squat workout for the day picking my bike back up. Ok so maverick and I stumble into Carlsbad after a long and exhausting day, I pick the first hotel I see, a nice and quaint motel 6, with free wireless I might add. Get in, crank up the AC, get ice cold refreshing cherry coke, get back to the room…. No power, and the hotel doesn’t have power for the next 2 hours. Wow what a day, needless to say in that time with no power I wrote this extensive monologue about my adventures. Power is back on and I must make some phone calls now. I know this was long I promise though and I made this promise to maverick too, it will be an easy day tomorrow, I’m going caving!! But I know I mentioned a lot of very trying adventures but many good things happened as well. Chris who I met earlier in Big Bend who was riding the Triumph Tiger gave me a whole bag of MRE’s which were delicious; there was even a lemon seed pound cake in there, my favorite! I also saw a bunch of wild life today, lots of jack rabbits, coyotes, cows, deer, and I also saw two herds of antelope which was really awesome, I wasn’t quick enough though to get a picture of them.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Some Pictures

Here is a link to some pictures more will come later i promise, i have a good thousand pictures so far and its only been two weeks!!! so stay tuned!

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2012790&l=26d88&id=46800004


PS i am right now in a visitors center in the middle of the Texas desert I'm about 2 miles from the Mexican border and its a good thousand degrees outside

From the beginning to Now



Hmm where to start, well first off I should let you know that I’m writing this on June 12th which as you very well may know is way after the start of my adventure, so everything from the beginning to now is all done from memory. I sure hope I don’t leave anything out. In any regard I decided to do a trip on a motorcycle for quite some time now. I became really interested in riding the summer after I graduated from VMI when I learned how to ride dirt bikes. I then made it my mission to get a bike, it didn’t matter what kind of bike just a bike, for the longest time I was looking at everything from big Harley’s to little sport bikes, to 1978 Yamaha Enduros, like my dad used to ride. In addition once I had said bike I wanted to do something big with this bike, and I knew that I would be having a sizable chunk of time on my hands upon my graduation from ‘The University’ and I thought maybe some backpacking in Europe, you know the standard post college adventure, and as enticing I thought it would have been I decided to forgo that idea and go to Europe some day later when I have more money to enjoy our friends across the Atlantic. So I thought about it some more… trip… motorcycle, trip plus motorcycle should be even more fun, so I put a plan into action. Ride around the United States on a motorcycle that is what I would do after I graduated for the second time. Simple right, well this trip has been in the works for almost 2 years now, because A.) I haven’t really been many places in the United States, B.) Motorcycles are new to me, and C.) traveling on a motorcycle for months at a time is very very new to me actually it’s a completely foreign concept. So I had to do a lot of planning, like what kind of bike, where would I go, what do I need to bring ect ect. A good friend of mine recommended me the book Odyssey to Ushuaia, an excellent read to say the least. It’s about a guy who graduates from college and was going to go to medical school however he decided to get a motorcycle and ride from New York to the southernmost tip of South America. This book and others like it were the real catalysts and inspirations for my trip. The saying oh if he can do it then I can too, was a major supporter of my planning. So I knew I wanted to travel across the US but not just on boring old highways I wanted to do it on the back roads, I didn’t just want to see just exit and entrance ramps I wanted to see more. So I made it a point of my trip to do as little highways and interstates as possible. Since I would be doing back roads and many of these roads may or may not be under developed, i.e. dirt roads I would need a bike to handle both highways and dirt roads and the occasional trail riding. I decided that I would need a dual sport motorcycle. A dual sport can best be described as a Jeep Wrangler of motorcycles. Low and behold the bike of my dreams appeared one day on craigslist and I went and got it as soon as possible. I purchased a 2002 Kawasaki KLR 650. The king of all dual sports, it’s not just a motorcycle, it’s an indestructible machine. KLR’s have been known to travel hundreds and thousands of miles all around the globe, this is the reason I chose this bike, it is sturdy, reliable, tough, easy to maintain, powerful, graceful…. Bla bla bla needless to say its an amazing bike and I love it dearly.
Although this bike is the bike of bikes, I had to do a lot of modifications to it to make it ready for the trip. Here I will list all the things I have done to the bike.









June 1, 2008



The official start of my trip was from my home base of the Mazzenga residents in Montclair Virginia. My parents bid me farewell with a delicious dinner and countless pictures. I still think they are confused as to what I am doing, oh well. My first stop was an uneventful stop, however I made it eventful. Before I departed I had to take care of some unfinished business in Charlottesville with my Master’s Thesis. I had to present it to the VDOT (Virginia Department of Transportation) brass to see what they thought about it and it gave them a chance to offer any suggestions. The meeting went extremely well and essentially they said that my research was not done in vain but that it was very relevant, informative and came at an excellent time. So I left with a smile. I made my last evening in Charlottesville an eventful one by visiting some of Charlottesville finest watering holes, like the Virginian. Being a Sunday night I realized that the only place that would be open would be of course the Virginian. I enjoyed my time there and woke up refreshed and ready for my meeting.



June 2, 2008



The official official start date of my trip is this day since it is when I left for Richmond, my first official stop on my itinerary. The ride to Richmond was rather uneventful. Not wanting to deal with directions I just hopped on 64 and headed straight to Richmond where I stayed with Margaret Ann’s family. I had a great time hanging out with MA and her sisters, then MA took me to a really good micro brewery called I believe Logan’s which overlooks Richmond. The next day MA took me around Richmond and showed me the sights, seeing that I have never actually seen much of Richmond. I visited the University of Richmond, I saw the Governor’s mansion and we drove by THE Country Club of Virginia. We then went to Carytown and walked around and got a really good pita lunch. Then it was time for me to hit the road for my next stop



June 3, 2008



North Carolina’s Outer Banks was my next stop on my itinerary. There I visited Allison and Kay-Kay and Leigh and Ben and an assortment of other people. It was a lot of fun! When I got there Allison showed me around and if I can remember I think we went out and got dinner. In the OBX I stayed at Allison’s place aptly named ‘The Electric Tent’. It’s in Duck and a short walk to the beach. That evening we went to a party at one of Ben and Allison’s friends place, and we met up with Leigh and Kay-Kay there. It was really cool to see those gals because they are a lot of fun, plus Kay-Kay had been in South America for the past year so it was fun seeing her again. She’s a big inspiration for this trip, too because of her adventurous attitude and the live it or lose it lifestyle, which I completely envy. I slept on the deck on the roof of the electric tent that evening and it was really cool waking up to hear the waves crashing and to see the sunrise.



June 4, 2008



My first full day in the OBX and Allison and I just chilled out we woke up late and Allison showed me around Duck. We went to Nags Head Hammocks where she works and we went to Leigh’s Mom’s store which she just opened, which everyone should go to! Allison and I then got sno-balls from Jeffery’s ice cream shop. Jeffery is a local who is known for his foul mouth, and the trip to Jeffery’s was everything I anticipated and more, what a character. In any regard I recommend to anyone in Duck to visit Jeffery’s Ice Cream shop as well. Later that afternoon Allison and I just chilled out and sat on the beach. Ben brought down some sit on top kayaks and we surfed in the waves in them. However Allison was being a not adventurous and wouldn’t surf in the waves because she was afraid of falling in the water. That evening we had a cook out. Then me Allison and Ben all rode our bikes (bicycles) to the Sunset Grill. They had a DJ that night, thus all the vacationers were out that evening dancing up a storm. They played lots of 80s music and all got a lot of laughs out of the 30 and 40 something’s dancing like fiends.



June 5, 2008



The next morning I bid farewell to Allison and the ‘electric tent’ and I made my way down the coast of the outer banks. This was by far one of the things I was waiting to do the most. I had always wanted to drive down the outer banks all the way to the end. It was a really great and relaxing ride. I went to Avon, Hatters, and a bunch of other towns I can’t remember. I rode down to the four wheel drive area and I took my bike into the sand and I was about to take it all the way on to the beach but I remembered all these horror stories I had read about getting loaded down bikes stuck in the sand. So I went out as far as I could on the hard gravel into the 4x4 area. Driving down the coast was absolutely amazing for some parts of the drive there was nothing on either side of me but the ocean on one and the sound on the other, and sand dunes for as far as I could see. I then proceeded on to the first ferry crossing in the OBX. The first one was 20 minutes and it was free and having a motorcycle is great because A.) You don’t need reservations because they can stick you anywhere on the boat and B.) You can go to the front of the line. The next ferry was in Hatters and that one was 2 hours long and I had to pay for that one. There was another motorcycle on that ferry and man and his wife from Florida. They were on a late 80s Honda Goldwing. When I talked to the couple they said they were very jealous of my trip and said they wished they could come with but they have to get back to work. The second ferry ride was absolute hell though. There were three tour buses of an 8th grade end of the year trip, so there was tons and tons of kids running around, one of the doors opened up from the tour bus right on my bike and I was just waiting for that one kid to knock my bike over and I’d subsequently knock him off the boat. Thankfully the ferry ride went without incident and pulling into the mainland in Cedar Point NC there were wild horses on the beach which was very cool to see. From there I kept riding to just outside camp Lejune where I bedded down for the night at an awesome camp ground. It was just for RVs but the guy let me stay there and they had wireless at all the camp sites which was a nice plus. On my way from the last ferry to the camp site I stopped off in Beaufort NC which was a really nice town, which I wish I could have spent some more time in.



June 6, 2008



Charleston South Carolina was next on my list for 2 reasons, one I had never been there and had heard many a good things about it and two my old roommate and friend from VMI, Chris Back is in school down there with the Navy. Being the weekend Chris promised me a good time in Charleston and I was not failed. Chris showed me around Charleston we went to the battery, saw all the houses. That evening he took me to Hymn’s; which is a well known seafood restaurant in Charleston. I got the Carolina delight, which is their specialty dish. It was amazing and if you know me I always clean my plate no matter what and this food was just so good and filling I couldn’t finish it. What the Carolina delight is, is fried fish of the day and on top of that is grilled scallops and on top of that is an alfredo cream and garlic sauce, and on top of all of that is bacon and cheddar cheese with a side of hush puppies. And wow was it the best thing ever, sitting in my campsite now writing this after eating my ramen and tuna fish I really wish I had my left overs right now. After that amazing dinner Chris took me to some of Charleston’s finest watering holes, and I met some of his friends in the Navy.









June 7, 2008



The next day I woke early because I had to get my bike into the shop. The day I left the campground I did an oil change on my bike and when I did it I noticed some metal shavings on the oil drain plug and the plug wasn’t screwing in completely tight. It was then I thought the worst, I must have stripped the threads on my engine for the drain plug. So I took great care on my drive to Charleston constantly checking the oil level. I got it into the shop and I was correct in my worst fear assumption, the threads were stripped and my beloved KLR would have to undergo major surgery to be brought back to life. Luckily the only Kawasaki dealer in the Charleston area was right around the corner from Chris’. After we dropped it off Chris and I did some more sightseeing in Charleston. We went to VMI’s famed rival the Citadel and toured around there for a bit. It was blazing hot outside however we rode out the heat to see everything we could see. The Citadel was nice; however I think VMI is nicer, what me biased… never. After the Citadel we got lunch in Charleston and Chris and I helped a girl jump start her car, and in return she gave us a free parking pass for her store in Charleston. That evening was Chris’s wetting down party which is the party all Navy officers get when they go from Ensign to Lieutenant JG (Junior Grade). The party was at a really nice club right on the waterfront by the Charleston Aquarium. After the party Chris got thrown into the water from the docks, to be ‘wetted down’. The next day I was on my way again.



June 8, 2008



I departed Charleston for a lengthy ride across Georgia to Columbus Georgia, near Fort Benning. Reason for this part of the trip… to visit my good buddy Jimmy (James) Wicker and his bride to be. The ride across Georgia was rather uneventful and rather rough. I stopped a couple times just to walk around and relax. I got a late start leaving Charleston, not getting out of there until around 2. This slated me for an 11 o’clock arrival at Jimmy’s. It was blazing hot out, at over 100 degrees for the better part of the day. I checked my tires on the ride there and I noticed some slight cracking and deteriorate on the rear tire and the front tire was very worn down. I knew at my next stop I would have to get new tires. I drove clear across the state of Georgia to Columbus and it was a long long ride. When I got to Jimmy’s I met Caitlin, their dogs and I was quickly asleep, from sheer exhaustion of my long day.









June 9, 2008



The next morning Jimmy and I went to breakfast at IHOP, and I was quickly on my way again. Jimmy was in the process of checking out of his unit in Georgia and he is on his way up to the 10th mountain division in upstate New York, with none other than Shawn Hogan! So needless to say I will be hanging out with Jimmy and Shawn again at the end of my adventure when I am passing through upstate New York! Stay posted because I am sure there will be many a story from that visit! As per Caitlin’s advice I drove to Eufala Alabama, which needless to say is the Big Bass Capitol of the world… I sure didn’t know that but it is, or at least that’s what all the signs say. I drove down the entire eastern part of Alabama into the gulf coast of Florida. From there I skirted the Gulf Coast passing through Panama City, Destin and lastly Pensacola, which is where I headed north to Milton Florida. There I stayed with Dan Rogers and Tyler McKnight. Two people I have gone to school with at separate schools seem to have found themselves as roommates in flight school, funny how that seems to work out! In Milton I knew it was time for me to get new tires. So I found a place that could have brand new Avon Gripsters shipped in overnight and put on the next day! Boy was I pumped to get some new kicks on my bike! The ride down the coast was pretty awesome. I really enjoy driving along the beach roads whether it is in the Carolinas or the gulf coast. The beaches were crystal clear with white sands for as far as I could see. Tyler and Dan have a really nice house in Milton right by the base where they are training to be helicopter pilots, and they are living with a Charlottesville native which is cool because we all know how much of a fan I am of Charlottesville! Being in Milton was a much needed break for me. I was very lazy and did not do much. Having spent a spring break before in Pensacola I did not feel the need to rock out this time I was here. I think the rest was very crucial because the day I drove to new Orleans I was a machine… maybe it was the new tires but I felt like a million bucks!



June 10, 2008



Since I got into Milton late I couldn’t get a hold of the bike shop but as soon as I woke up I called TurnOne Performance in Milton Florida and the manager there said that he could overnight the tires to his store and have them for me in the morning to be installed. I hung out with Dan and Tyler and did some little repair things on my bike and preventative maintenance. Before leaving my house I had ordered some parts and had them shipped to Tyler’s, so I spent some time installing those. I got a lowered kick stand for my bike since after it was lowered my regular kick stand was too tall and all I had was the lowered center stand that I ordered which is very convenient for doing maintenance and stuff on the bike but getting a fully loaded KLR up on to and off a center stand is a feat in and of itself. Effectively you have to push the entire bike off the stand with all its weight and I am not going to lie a couple times I have slowly lowered it to the pavement on it side, but never worry , my indestructible pelican cases protect the bike from any knocks, scratches or cuts! So I got the side stand on and I also got some great wolfman tank panniers, to carry a little extra gear. It’s important to have as much weight forward on the bike as possible however currently all the weight aside from the tank bag is at the back of the bike on the boxes. So I use the tank panniers to carry any extra heavy stuff. Also when I get into more back country riding out west where I have to pack in more food for multiple days I will use the panniers to carry food and water as well.



June 11, 2008



I got the tires put on today and they are AMAZING!!! The guy at the store was very impressed I made it that far on the tires I had. They just were not made for that intense of pavement riding which I had to do to get out west to the vast unpaved roads out there. The shop was really cool and the waiting room was right in the store and the shop so I got to see them as they did all the work on my beloved KLR. Riding the bike back to Tyler’s felt like night and day. The only way I could compare would be if you drove a Model T on a dirt road and then got in a Lexus and drove on Indianapolis speed way. It was a lot smoother and there was much less jarring around. I also improved my miles per gallon by a whole 10 mpg. Yes you read correctly 10 mpg better, I now get somewhere around 55 mpg! Once I got back I got the bike up on the center stand and I adjusted the suspension to be a little stiffer. I noticed when Dan got on and rode it around the neighborhood it sagged A LOT. So I thought if I stiffened up the suspension then there would be less sag and the bike wouldn’t bottom out in case I hit any big bumps when I take on Big Bend National Park in Texas the coming week!



June 12, 2008



Ah finally back on the road again… Today was by far a very exciting and exhilarating day. However there are many more like it to come. Having never been to New Orleans I decided that I must go. So I headed to the gulf coast from Milton and skirted the water on Highway 90. It took me through Gulfport and Biloxi Mississippi. These towns were very unique and interesting. It was clear that there was extensive destruction to the entire Mississippi and Louisiana coast from Hurricane Katrina. There was tons and tons of empty lots with nothing but the drain pipe sticking up. In the mix of brand new mansions was deserted lots. There was a lot of construction going on, and every building I saw along the coast was either leveled or completely redone and brand new. I really liked driving down the coast though on highway 90 there were huge trees with Spanish moss covering them which subsequently shaded the entire road, and bordering the road was huge plantation homes and then bordering the other side was white sand beaches. It was a beach town like I’d never seen before. Huge plantation homes with big white columns and perfectly manicured lawns, with huge mahogany trees and palm trees mixed together all covered in Spanish moss adjacent to expansive white sand beaches and crystal clear water. Do you get the picture now? After passing through Gulfport I took a ferry across a bay, I can’t remember which one but it took me to the mainland of Louisiana. Crossing on the ferry was quick, however at 8 bucks it was not a deal. I paid 10 on the Pamlico Sound ferry and I got a 2 hour ride this one was just 20 minutes. Oh well, in any regard when I was crossing the bay there was a lot of off shore oil platforms which was pretty cool and I had never seen so many like that before. When I crossed into Louisiana, I made my way into the mainland but not before driving along the Alabama coastline some more. Again more white sand beaches however these ones were very desolate and there was not many houses as I believe most of them were washed away due to Katrina. When I got into Louisiana I drove through the Bayou, which was way cool; another very different environment which I had never been in. It was comprised of a lot of swamps and bridges connecting little islands. I was rather impressed at the number of roads crossing through the bayou and through all the swamps. I made my way into New Orleans around 5ish but I wasn’t planning on spending the night there, since it would have been very very expensive and plus I was nervous about leaving my one and only mode of transportation for the next few months in a rather dangerous city. However driving through New Orleans was very very cool. I was slightly apprehensive about driving into the city but it was well worth it. The city is so amazing very old and with a lot of culture! I spent an hour or so just cruising the various streets. I drove down Bourbon Street of course and I got quite a bit of hollers and questions as to where I was going. After spending some time in NOLA, I made my way out of the city to the Tickfaw State Park where I planned to spend the night. The drive from New Orleans to Tickfaw was another very picturesque drive which I wasn’t expecting. I took interstate 10 west, which took me towards Baton Rouge through more of the Bayou. Most of the highway is elevated above the swamp for a good 20 miles or so. It was very cool to look out and all you could see was swamp for as far as the eye could see. I arrived to Tickfaw after picking up some provisions and this brings me to where I am currently. I am doused in bug spray fending off man eating mosquitoes in the middle of the Louisiana Bayou. Tomorrow I will continue heading west where I will be visiting my friend Kendra in Houston!



June 13 2008



I got a quasi late start this morning, sleeping in then the rain started, so what was supposed to be an easy chill day turned into a rather rushed day, and on top of it all I had wanted to drive through Galveston Texas, but I couldn’t make it, I just had no idea how big Texas really is, I mean once I crossed the border I still had a good 200 more miles to go until I got to Huntsville, which is just outside Houston, where Kendra lives. What the gulf coast of Texas lacks in plain niceness it really makes up for it once you get on route 16, which a description of will come later. My drive from my campsite just outside new Orleans began rather poorly, it was a good thousand degrees with humidity, I honestly have to say the humidity was over 100 percent, I think I was actually swimming when I woke up and started packing up the bike. I tried to get dressed and packed as soon as I could because the only thing that would cure this drenching sweat would be the wind on my bike…. But that did not happen because as I was packing up it started to drizzle a little bit, so I donned my full pants and jacket head to toe in my man made sauna, and I left the camp ground. My plan was to drive to the coast through Baton Rouge then make my way along the coastline crossing through Mississippi, and then into Texas. Well that plan did not work out because it was a good 140 plus miles just to get to the coast and I had to go it slow since it was raining. On the plus side all of my gear worked as it should have in regards to the rain. My jacket kept me completely dry, the pants were great aside from the fact that I forgot to zip up park of the leg zip so I was drenched on one calf. My tank bag came with a rain cover and it kept everything dry, and my new tires work amazingly well in the slippery conditions! On my way to the coast I saw that I would be passing through Louisiana State University, so I decided to make a short stop just to check out the LSU campus, andddd it was really nice there. I drove along Greek row and all their sorority and fraternity houses are on this huge lake and the houses were absolutely gigantic. I took a picture of my bike in front of the KD house and the KA house of course. I made my way back to the highway and proceeded on my way. I was pretty excited because today was the day that I would be crossing the Mississippi river for the first time, aside from being in a plane. When I crossed the Mississippi river I noticed how much industry was on the river itself it’s like a highway in and of itself. I also saw the coincidental paddle boat and tons and tons of barges. When I finally made my way to the coast it was rather uneventful. There is nothing there, miles and miles of beaches with nothing, not a beach house or beach town in site. However justification for this was due to the fact that Katrina completely obliterated these towns. There were scatterings of new houses being put up but nothing substantial. Something that was in going at full force was the oil refineries and the oil pumping station. There were a number of off shore oil rigs dotting the coast line for as far as you could see. Thus for every oil platform there was about a hundred other pump stations on shore or refineries. Needless to say this area of the coast along Louisiana Mississippi and Texas is predominantly used for industry. Some of the more interesting things I saw along the way an alligator in the middle of the road, and I passed these power line workers using a helicopter to fix the power lines, now that was really cool. I saw the alligator in the road and I thought it was just a piece of a tire from far away but as I got closer I saw the scales and I slowed down but he flew into the air and ran back into the water. I got to Kendra’s place kind of late, it was a good 100 plus degrees when I arrived and I was soaked in sweat, good thing though as soon as I got there we went bowling and they had cold beer! Mmm delicious! I was fortunate enough to bowl a 100 at least once. The rest of the time I just spent in the company of good people with frosty beverages.




June 14, 2008



By far the best riding day yet! Even better than all the fun ferries in the outer banks. Texas really has a lot to offer once you get inland. I left Kendra’s around 10ish and she drew me an awesome map of college station home of Texas A&M. I think it’s fun to visit college towns and see what different schools have to offer. So far I’ve visited LSU, A&M, Citadel and UVA. Ok so first stop college station, for a couple reasons. Although the good people at Britt Motor Sports in Charleston SC repaired my oil plug leak, the bike is still leaking albeit slower. So I had to make a stop to the Kawasaki dealer in college station to pick up some more oil for the bike. I filled it with one quart and brought an extra quart with me. College station was fun driving around I couldn’t find the corps of cadets barracks or anything of that nature but I did get a picture in front of Kyle Stadium, home of the Aggies. After browsing around college station for a bit I headed over to Bryan Texas which is basically right next door and I got lunch at Chicken Oil Co. which was really really good. They had fried pickles which I really wanted badly but it was a whole meal and I didn’t think I could sustain myself on fried pickles alone! So I got a hamburger, a Margaret Ann favorite. After leaving Bryan I headed west where I would be camping at Lost Maples State Park. The drive to the campground was utterly amazing this is why I liked the ride today so much, it was tons of twisties, lots of very scenic mountain drives ect ect. I took 290 west to hwy 16 which brought me right into my camp ground after I skirted around Austin the road got less crowded and there were TONS of motorcycles out today. I don’t know there must have been some sort of rally this weekend but there were more bikes than cars on the road, all Harleys and big cruisers, I saw two count em two dual sports, and one KLR which for some reason was pulled over on the side of the road with some other bikes and a cop car. Hwy 290 is listed in my map book as a Michelin Tire Scenic drive and now I know why, the pictures don’t even do the road justice, all along the highway are tons and tons of ranches, really big ones with huge gates ushering you in. As I got further from Austin the roads got a lot more hilly until I was climbing some steep switch backs. I still haven’t perfected going smoothly in and out of turns but I’m working on it. I took my time today and relaxed the ride was very nice and I’m looking forward to tomorrows ride even more. The camp ground is very nice, I wish I had more time to explore this state park, when I drove in there were crystal clear streams that were dammed up in places, so I got to my site as fast as I could because I wanted to soak in the waters, it was so relaxing to get in the river. You could see all the way to the bottom and it was a perfect cooling temperature. Speaking of which I wish I was back in the river now. I stopped at Wal-Mart and got some more provisions for the next couple days. I’m going to need lots of food because tomorrow ill be headed to big bend national park and I’ll be doing some back country camping there which will be awesome. I mixed up my dinner a bit tonight and I had ravioli. I got a bunch of those packets of flavored tuna and some ramen which are really good when you mix them together. Well it is time for me to hit the hay it has been a long day. I hope you enjoyed reading. Stay tuned for more to come!