Sunday, August 17, 2008

The end of the road

Well with every great adventure there comes a time for it to be over and, and that time came a couple days ago, I just haven't announced it on here yet. I continued heading north to upstate New York to stay with a good friend of mine Shawn Hogan from VMI. However on my way to Watertown i made a quick stop in Bufalo New York to see the awesome Niagara Falls. It was just a quick stop so i didn't stay there too long, that and it was raining. I was really glad though to get to Shawn's in Watertown because the rain was torrential, everything on me was absolutely soaked, there was so much rain i had almost an inch of water in my boots. So Watertown was awesome, I got to meet all of Shawn's Army friends and we went to a number of fine Watertown establishments. I also got the opportunity to go white water rafting down the Black River which apparently has some of the world's best white water runs. I can thank Estelle for the awesome white water trip. We did a lot of class 4 rapids and with all the rain that Watertown has been having the river was higher and more intense than it had been in the past three years. We had an awesome rafting guide who took us down some of the tougher routes and we went over a couple waterfalls. The next day Shawn took me to a state park near Watertown where we went rappelling on these cliffs overlooking Lake Ontario. After the rappelling adventure Shawn, Estelle and I just hung out on the rocks and read and relaxed. On our way back from the beach we saw a seafood restaurant so naturally being our hungry selves we stopped in and got dinner there. It was a rather nice place and i was a little nervous about going there because I was wearing just my swim suit and a stellar sleeveless motorcycle shirt Allison sent me. However the restaurant owner let us eat there and i thought our apparel added a little color to the place anyhow. The official last day of riding occurred on Sunday August 11th. Initially I planned to make it a two day ride from upstate New York to my home in Virginia, but when I got on the road it turned out that it was a very doable 400 plus miles away so rather than stay in a campground over night I decided to hightail it all the way back home. I was on interstate 81 for much of the trip with some heavy rain at times and at one place in Pennsylvania around Scranton i believe there was tons and tons of hail on the road. It looked like a huge storm had just passed through and thankfully I did not have to ride in it, but there was so much hail that it looked like it had snowed. It was piled up almost 3 inches high on parts of the road, and it was a pretty surreal scene to see all the hail. Well I made it home around 9:30 Sunday evening, and surprised my parents having arrived a day early. So after almost 15,000 miles and a little under two and a half months I had made it back! Oh one story i forgot to mention, so many people asked me along the way if i listen to music or anything when i ride and i would tell them no, all that time and no music, i know you must say wow how bored did you get. So when i was in Watertown I bought some headphones for my motorcycle helmet and I listened to some tunes for the first time, which really was pretty nice to have some music to listen to and why i did not do it sooner i have no idea. But anyways when I was leaving Syracuse New York after saying my good byes I got on the road for my last leg of my adventure, and I thought it was so ironic because as soon as i pushed play on my shuffled songs Johnny Cash's "I've Been Everywhere" came on it was so strange because while I was listening to the song he names of all these places, and I was mentally going through them and I swear I must have visited almost 70 percent of all the places he mentioned just this summer. So that was kind of interesting and slightly ironic that that was the first song that came on while I was riding! Well I must say this was quite an adventure I had an absolutely amazing time, I saw some amazing places, got to meet great people, see all my family, and I really learned a whole heck of alot about motorcycles! I want to thank anyone and everyone who helped me along the way and supported me through this trip. Everywhere I went i was greeted with the greatest hospitality ever! Here are some quick facts about the trip that I kept record of.

  • one and a half sets of tires were used
  • 5 oil changes
  • over 291 gallons of fuel burned
  • average miles per gallon 42 (driving conservatively at 55 mph)
  • average miles per gallon 26 (full throttle driving at 80 plus mph)
  • clutch cable replaced in San Francisco
  • 2 flat tires both front
  • dropped the bike countless times
  • new chain and spark plug southern California
  • only stayed in 2 hotels the entire trip
  • Visited 27 states
  • almost 15,000 miles traveled
  • 72 days on the road

I hope everyone enjoyed reading this, I know it was rather lengthy at times but there was just so much to see out there in the United States! This really was an adventure that I will remember for the rest of my life and I was very happy to share it with you, next adventure... South America!!!




Saturday, August 9, 2008

Michigan, Family Visits, Ohio, and the Great Lakes

July 28th

As exciting as yesterday was, today was the complete opposite, very relaxed and very chill. I got a late check out from my hotel to compensate for the loss in hour due to the time change for me as I moved from mountain time to central time. My first stop was the Hitching Post, a local motorcycle dealer. I needed some routine maintenance things so I had to make it my first stop. While at the shop I got a spare bulb for the burnt out one I was pulled over for last night, turns out it wasn’t a fuse problem, good because I hate to get to the fuses because I have to take off the top box and my seat and side panels which is a real pain. Ok so brake light good, I also got another can of chain lube because I was almost out and I got a bottle of brake fluid because my rear brake fluid level was looking a little low. I also got two spare rear brake pads because recently my rear brakes have been making some irritating noise and turns out that noise is the pads wearing down and I can see fellow motorists cringe when I come to a stop so tomorrow morning will be a tech morning for me and I will be replacing my rear brake pads a simple and easy routine job well I should hope so. So I rode out of Minneapolis today to the twin city of St Paul to drive down Summit Ave, which I might add is the longest road of Victorian style houses in the country, the drive was absolutely awesome. I also got to stop by the Minnesota governor’s mansion which is also on Summit Ave for some great pictures. Furthermore St. Paul’s Cathedral is also located in St. Paul (no pun intended) and I stopped by there to check it out, which is a must visit for anyone to the area. The Cathedral is absolutely gigantic and I spent a good amount of time in there, I said a couple prayers, took a few pictures and I was on my way. Heading out of the twin cities area I of course hit traffic because I was leaving right in rush how something which I did not wish I had done. Now the Twin cities area is well known for its traffic control strategies something which I spent two years studying; So traffic wasn’t as bad as it could have been is what I am really trying to say. I headed north east towards the Wisconsin border and it was a very chill ride. I wasn’t planning on a high mileage day so I went about 200 miles to a town on highway 2 in north eastern Wisconsin. I finally made it to a town called iron city, where I got a delicious couple blue moons, summer ale version that is and I headed to my campground which is on of course a lake, because there are thousands of lakes in the north east! Tomorrow will be a really great day I am going to visit Marquette Michigan in the Upper Peninsula home of Northern Michigan university where my dad went. I am really excited to explore the Upper Peninsula as I haven’t been there in many years so I cannot wait!!!!
July 30
So the Upper Peninsula is a lot bigger than I had anticipated, my dad had told me that it is rather long but I had to experience that for myself. One thing I should say though is that the Upper Peninsula is very beautiful tons of forests and great shoreline views of the Great Lakes. Before left my campsite in the morning I replaced the rear brake pads on my bike and it was a good thing that I did because they were in some really really bad shape. I should have replaced those things many miles ago but it didn’t become apparent to me until I took the brake caliper off and visually inspected the pads. Once I got the caliper off which took some muscle to do since the screws were basically bonded to the frame it took a little finagling to get the pads removed. Due to my overuse of the rear pads they were rather warped and it was not easy to remove the pads. I also learned that you can’t put more brake fluid in the reservoir than is recommended, I thought that I could just pour in enough until it was overflowing over the little reservoir container however I was wrong, since there was so much fluid in the brake lines as soon as I took the caliper off the brake pads clamped together which is why I had to bleed some of the brake fluid out so relieve the pressure in the line so I could pull the pads out. One I figured all this out replacing the pads was as easy as cake and I since learned a new lesson, and that is you can have too much of a good thing, i.e. brake fluid.
Ok so on the road for me, I stopped in at a dinner on my way out of town by suggestion of the campground host for a delicious breakfast. It was amazing I got the super special something or another with a bunch of pancakes, and eggs and sausage and hash browns, ect ect. So yes that was good and I was full for pretty much the rest of the day! My one big destination of the day was the town of Marquette which is home of Northern Michigan University where my dad went. I stopped in there for a bit toured around the town of Marquette and I was back on the road. Most of the rest of the drive through the UP was kind of boring just more trees and no dual sporting for me which I had wanted to do. I did however get to drive through the town of Christmas Michigan, kind of touristy but I can now say that I have been to Christmas. Once I passed through Christmas I stopped in the town of Munising because I was of course hungry again. I found the most hopping place by the name of Dog something which apparently has awesome sandwiches as per the signs on their place. I got in and the service was friendly and the food amazing. They had an all you can eat seafood buffet which was all fresh fish caught from the lake, it was so good just thinking about it now I want to eat more! I got a full four plates of seafood and I was very content. I had planned on riding further after dinner but it was getting late and I bedded down for the night just outside of Christmas in a national park campground on the shore of lake Superior.

July 31

I awoke early and was on the road as soon as I could because today would be my big dual sport riding day! I was so anxious I had checked my map the evening before and there were numerous national forest roads and snowmobile routes which crises crossed all over the Upper Peninsula. My initial plan was to ride to the Mackinaw Island area today and then wake up the next morning and make my way down the eastern coast of Michigan to my Grandma Louise’s however this did not happen and once I got to the Mackinaw Bridge I decided I would suck it up and ride the 4 hours or so it is to the Detroit area. When I left my campsite I headed to the Pictured Rocks National Park and I road some amazing dirt roads through the park. Riding in the UP was a lot different than some of the other dual sport riding I had previously done; this was in the woods with a good amount of mud that I had to deal with. I was at first worried because the nick-name for my Avon Gripsters as I mentioned before is the Slipsters, and in addition to this the tread on my rear tire is next to nothing so I had to be careful with what I rode through. The road to pictured rocks was good until I got to part of the park where there was a road block and turns out the new park management closed all trails to ORV (off road vehicles) so that left me stranded. I had to backtrack all the way through the Upper Peninsula around the park. It wasn’t such a big deal, I got to ride on lots of snowmobile trails which conveniently were all marked in my Garmin, so I had a lot of fun riding the trails. One thing I did have to worry about as I rode further south down the snowmobile trails towards the mackinaw bridge area was that a lot of the snowmobile trails were pretty well sanded out. No more had packed forest dirt but lots of sandy spots, so the riding was a little squirrely at times and thankfully Mav didn’t go down at all! Ok so I rode dirt roads for a better part of the Upper Peninsula all the way from Munising to the Mackinaw Bridge. Once I got near the bridge is when I decided that I didn’t want to spend another night camping and that I would make my way to my grandmas that evening. So after crossing the bridge which was a lot of fun I high tailed it down interstate 75 straight through the middle of Michigan and on to Grandmas! When I told people I was going to cross the Mackinaw Bridge on a motorcycle I initially got many concerned comments. Apparently the bridge is subject to some extreme winds and cars have actually been blown off the bridge but thankfully I crossed on a fairly calm day and I really enjoyed the drive over. Once I crossed the bridge the ride to Grandmas was uneventful and I got a little after nine and bedded down for the night.
August 1
Today was a down day for me, and I spent most of the day just catching up with my grandma and hanging out at her place. Our one adventure for the day was to get a new rear tire for Maverick. I had put a good 11,000 on my rear Avon Gripster and it was looking pretty rough, the tread was worn way below the recommended 2 mm depth and I was in dire need of a new tire. I called around every place I could find in the phone book and to no avail no one had an Avon Gripster for me. People could get them but it would have taken close to a week and I would have to spend extra for shipping so that was a big no seeing that Avon’s are already pricy tiers. So after more calling around I finally found a shop that suggested I call a place by the name of Blue Wheel Tires a car and motorcycle tire supplier and just my luck they had the exact tire I needed in stock, and it was just down the road from my grandmas! I was so happy! When I got there to pick up the tire the guys at the desk were rather surprised and shocked to say the least because no one ever buys this tire from there and they were even shocked that they had it in stock. So Grandma and I picked up the new tire and I headed over to Macomb Power sports where they installed the new tire and a beefier rear tube, they were also nice enough to oil and tighten my chain which I thought was pretty nice of them. Good people here at Macomb Power sports, because lately I have had some pretty snooty motorcycle shops that I’ve dealt with. While waiting for the tire to be installed I of course spent the next hour buying un necessary things for my bike, two of the necessary things which were included in my purchase was some more oil and new front brake pads. Once the tire adventure was complete I headed back to my Grandmas where I packed some things to head to my Aunt Kris and Uncle Joe’s where I was going to pick up a car from their place for my next big adventure… Cedar Point!!! I hung out with my aunt and uncle and cousin for a bit then I made my way to my aunt Marilynn’s where I was spending the night since we had to be up early the next day to leave for Cedar Point!!!
August 2

Cedar Point… wow what more can I say I had an absolute blast, not only was I getting to spend lots of time with all my family but I got to ride some killer roller coasters. Cedar Point bills itself as the roller coaster capitol of the world and it is everything it claims and more. I rode to Cedar Point with my Aunt Marilynn and my cousins, Bobby, Joey, and Nicky, and my cousin Bobby’s girlfriend Jacquelyn. When we got to the park we met up with all the rest of the family. I did not know this before I got to Michigan but the Cedar Point trip was going to be a Family Reunion which is awesome because I have been visiting tons of family my entire summer and the more the merrier! When we got to the park we were staying at the Breakers Hotel which much to my surprise is very old and historic, and another great thing was that it was dead smack in the middle of the park so we basically parked the car got out and walked straight into the park. When we first got into the park my cousins and I all rushed to the Dragster, quite possibly one of the most extreme roller coasters I have ever ridden. The ride is all of 12 seconds long, if that and it shoots you from zero to 120 mph in a few seconds and straight up spiraling into the sky then you crest over a hill and spiral back down just as fast as you went up. It was an amazing ride and well worth the wait, it was one of the first roller coasters in a long while that I got such a rush from. Being a Saturday in August the park was rather crowded so as the day went along the waits for the coasters got a little bit longer, but it was ok because I had a good 16 + cousins to wait in line with and talk to. We rode a bunch of other coasters throughout the day which included the Mantis, the Raptor, the Corkscrew, the Millennium Force, and my personal favorite, the Maverick!!!! Yes people Cedar Point has a roller coaster named after my famed Kawasaki KLR! The ride was very cool and I will not describe it to you so as not to ruin the surprise. After we rode it I wanted to get a sticker for my bike from the ride however the store there did not carry maverick Stickers which was a big bummer. Later that evening we had dinner with all the family at a Japanese steak house where I ate way too much food for the roller coasters I would be riding later that evening. I managed though to hold it all down and rode roller coasters long into the night all the way until 11 pm. The trip to Cedar Point was quite a memorable one and I really enjoyed seeing all my extended family there. I want to personally thank my Aunt Marilynn for making it an awesome experience and taking care of me the entire time, I would not have been able to come or even known about it this trip had it not been for her, so a big thank you goes out to my Aunt Marilynn!

August 3

The next morning we woke early and met the rest of the family for breakfast and after a big group photo we all parted our ways and I headed back to Michigan with my Aunt Marilynn and my cousins. Before I tell you about my big Sunday I just want to thank another awesome aunt of mine for planning a really fun pool party. Seeing that a number of the cousins in college were in town, two summer birthdays were upon us and well it was nice out and who doesn’t like pool parties, my Aunt Sue had everyone over for a fun afternoon of good food, delicious beverages, and pool side fun! The food was great; my Uncle Jay grilled these amazing sausages, along with grilled corn on the cob. My one cousin Bobby is quite the chef himself and marinated some shrimp which were later grilled and tasted amazing. I was so happy to see all my relatives on my dad’s side of the family and I also got to see my Grandma Marianne, Actually both of my grandma’s on my mom and dad’s side of the family were there so it was fun to hang out with both of them! One of the highlights of the pool party was when we had flaming cheese, now I am probably going to butcher the spelling of this but what you do is melt this delicious cheese on a platter on the grill then you put some liquor on the cheese and throw a match into it and everyone says “OHPAA!!!!” Well the first time we did it my aunt threw the match into the cheese downwind so the flames flared up almost engulfing her but no one lost their eyebrows so it was all ok. The second time the flames weren’t quite as big but the cheese was really good on pita bread. So I ate and ate and ate, and hung out with all my family for a good long while until it was time for me and everyone else to head home. Before everyone left though we all went out front and got a picture in front of Mav with my entire family, hopefully I will be able to upload that picture for all to see, and I will also try to get the video up of the flaming cheese, a personal favorite of mine! Ok so something that has been looming over my head for the past several months has been an unfinished report for the Virginia Department of Transportation which I am required to complete as part of my time in graduate school. So the report is almost almost done, there are just a couple revisions which I had to make so I spent a better part of the night polishing it up for final review, as such I did not get to go see the new Batman movie which I had planned on seeing before I left Michigan. All in all the trip to Michigan was great, I got to see all of my family, I got to eat great food, and it was quite a memorable experience

August 4

There were a lot of things slated for my schedule today that did not get done due to the ever foreboding weather which was moving in. I was up early though because I had many things to do before I left this evening, however my leave time was bumped up to an earlier time to beat the rain. Waiting for me when I woke up was a delicious breakfast that my grandma fixed for me seeing that it was my last day visiting with her, the breakfast was just what I needed for the big day I had ahead of me. As with every 3,000 mile stint Mav was due for an oil change. I had debated switching to synthetic oil all trip long because I can go a lot further between changes if I used synthetic, however seeing that I was at the tail end of my trip I would not be putting on any more serious mileage like this for quite some time so it was back to the same old 20-W50 oil I have been always using. By suggestion of my grandma I rode to an auto shop on the corner near her house where I could do the oil change and dispose of the oil. So far the guys at the fix it shop I went to today have been the nicest and most accommodating for my routine maintenance. They were very interested in the trip and didn’t change me anything to dispose of the waste oil. After the oil change I headed back to my grandmas garage to replace the front brake pads. They were not terribly worn down, however rather than waiting for them to wear out and seeing that I recently changed the rear pads I figured it would be better anyhow to have fresh pads front and rear at the same time. Replacing the front pads took all of 5 minutes and I couldn’t believe that if I would have taken it into the shop they would have changed me almost $45 to change just one set!! With fresh pads and new oil Mav was ready for the road. My first stop I had planned on was to visit my Dad’s cousin Lori and her husband Tom. Now Tom and Lori, like myself are motorcycle enthusiasts, and provided me with a lot of advice when I was planning my trip. I really owe a lot to them for their guidance in the planning process and I was really looking forward to riding over to their house when I was in Michigan to say hello and introduce Maverick to their heard of bikes. Well as I was getting ready to head out, I checked the local weather and just my luck, thunderstorms were in the area and coming quick. As much as I wanted to go see Tom and Lori I just did not think it would be safe to do a day of riding in the rain. This rain also put a stop to my evening meal, as I had planned on meeting my other Grandma for dinner that evening. So sadly I had to cancel dinner with my Grandma and my visit with Tom and Lori so that Maverick and I would have a safe and rain free journey down to Cleveland Ohio. On my drive down to Cleveland I decided to take the most scenic route as possible yet quickest out of the city and I went by my old house where I grew up at in Michigan! It was really good to see my old house and it had changed quite a bit, my old swing set had been replaced by a gigantic wooden fort like play set and the new family had added a deck on to the back of our house. I did a little drive around the old neighborhood, then I headed for my second quick stop on my way out of town to the town of Grosse Point Woods where I visited my Mom’s house where she grew up. The drive though Grosse Point was very nice and along the water most of the way through these huge neighborhoods with gigantic mansions on the water. The gigantic mansions on the water soon gave way to inner city and before I knew it I was in the real city part of Detroit. The buildings are rather nice; architecturally that is, however they are run down and in ill repair. It was rather sad to see the city in this state however Detroit has been undergoing some hard times as I understand and if you look at it this way the only way this city can go now is up! So on that positive note I was happy to know that maybe someday these old historic buildings will one day be as nice as they once were in their heyday. Once I left Detroit the drive down to Cleveland was rather uneventful, I hopped on the interstate so there was not much to see. I was pretty anxious to get to Cleveland though because I was going to get to spend time with my Uncle Nick who works in the city. Now Cleveland is something of a cool city, I was quite impressed with it and I really enjoyed my time there. That evening when I got there I was greeted by my Uncle and a nice frosty beverage. We later headed out to a great place for burgers and I was subsequently stuffed. We then did some bar hopping for a bit and I really enjoyed getting to spend time with my uncle as I do not get very many chances like this. The night was fun but tomorrow would be even more eventful since my Uncle Nick was going to take me on a walking tour of the city.

August 5

My uncle lives in a really central part of the city so it was very convenient to walk from place to place to place. We first headed to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame down by the water and I had thought about maybe going in and checking it out but it was a whole $25 bucks to tour the place and although I am a music fan I am not enough of one to pay that much to see some old albums and what not. After some photo ops in front of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame we made our way over to the Cleveland Browns Stadium then back up into the city to grab lunch. On our tour I also got to see the Jessie Owens Statue, which many of you may like to know is a Cleveland Native and ran track at Ohio State University. My uncle and I grabbed lunch at the Hard Rock Café where I had an awesome pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw on it which is a favorite of mine. I also forgot to mention that on our walking tour we stopped in at this one microbrewery to sample some frosty beverages and they had the coolest thing at the bar, and that was a long strip of ice that ran the length of the bar so you could set your drink on it to keep it chilled. I thought it was the coolest thing I had seen in a bar since well anything. At the conclusion of our lunch and walking tour my uncle and I headed back to his place where I packed up my things and I got back on the road to head further south to the city of Columbus Ohio where my cousin Alex just moved to. I was very thankful to have gotten the chance to spend time with my Uncle Nick in Cleveland and I am also very happy to say that I have now visited every single one of my aunts and uncles on both sides of the family, and all in one summer! I got into Columbus right around six-ish and like the drive to Cleveland I just took the interstate and it was rather uneventful riding. My cousin Alex lives in a really cool area of Columbus called I believe it was the Brewery District, which is right near the German town area. It’s very historic, so much so the streets are still made of brick pavers. Alex has quite a sweet pad which overlooks the pool and is complete with gigantic TV and the mandatory pool table in the living room. I can only hope my new apartment this fall will be as cool as Alex’s. We talked for a bit and Alex showed me around the place then we headed to dinner as we were both getting very hungry. Alex and I tried out this one restaurant which had of course its own microbrewery and we ordered a pizza with everything on it, and when I say everything it had literally every toping they carry except for of course onions because as we all know from the new Mexico broken shifter incident, I hate onions. The pizza was delicious as was the frosty beverages. After dinner Alex took me on a driving tour of Columbus up High Street and then to a huge gigantic open air mall which basically has every awesome restaurant I could imagine. One thing I have been doing on my trip is visit college towns and seeing that Columbus Ohio has one of the biggest undergraduate populations at the Ohio State University we had to drive through the campus. I don’t have an official count but I have visit almost one major university in every single state I have been in. At the conclusion of the driving tour Alex and I made our way back to his place where we ended up watching some episodes of Entourage, which is a second only to Lost one of my most favorite shows on TV. Now Alex has the mother of all cable packages so we were able to watch the last couple episodes of the 3rd season of Entourage which I had not seen yet, I was very content and at the conclusion of that I was spent and crashed for a good night’s sleep.
August 6, 2008
Today was another uneventful driving day. Not much to see here. I left Alex’s around 1ish and I got to sleep in which was good because I needed the long rest to recharge the batteries! I took mainly highways from Columbus. My final destination is Watertown New York home of the infamous Shawn Hogan also known as Hogatron, a fellow VMI alumnus and former class Valedictorian. Mr. Hogan is quite the character and my visit to Watertown may quite possibly be one of the wildest experiences on my trip yet. So back to the driving, I couldn’t make it to Watertown in just one day which is basically in upstate New York where the winters last 10 months of the year, so I split the drive into two days. I rode to just east of Cleveland and I got on the Lake Erie Scenic Byway which skirts the lake all the way to the Pennsylvania border where it becomes I believe it’s called the Lake Shore Byway. I crossed into Pennsylvania and with the sun getting low on the horizon I found a campsite on the banks of the Lake Erie where I am currently residing. Tomorrow should be an adventurous day where I will continue to follow the coastline of Lake Erie and I will visit Niagara Falls and then make my way further north to Watertown where I will spend the weekend with Hogatron.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

My longest day yet, 500 miles and then some!

July 27th

With every bad day there is always a lesson to be learned, and to save you the time for reading through every minute thing that happened today which culminated in me staying in a Super Motel rather than the trendy hostel I was slated to stay at I will tell you this. Always make sure you do an equipment check before each days ride, and not just a quick once over but check things like brake lights, and cables, ect ect. Because little things like a tail light being out will snowball into a multitude of other things which leaves one staying in a Super 8, and not the trendy hostel, in the cool part of town. My day officially began at 4:55 am to a cool wet felling of rain on my face. Earlier that evening I had checked the local Interior South Dakota Weather and there was no such report of rain not even close and since it was much warmer in the Badlands than Oregon or Washington State I decided to leave the rain fly to cool me off. Well that did not go as planned due to the unprecedented rain, I hastily jumped out of my tent leaving the door wide open and I rummaged through my things to find the rain fly and stakes. I quickly put the rain fly up only to realize that I did it upside down and I had to un stake and re do the entire thing. I should also add that because of the warmer temperatures I was sleeping without a shirt on so when I got out of the tent to put the rain fly on I neglected the fact that there were swarms of mosquitoes, and I subsequently am itchy all over now, and since I left the door open on my tent I spent the rest of the night, wet, itchy and restless, so between the hours of 5 am and 8 am I did not get much sleep, which is not what I needed the day before a big 500 mile ride I had planned. Of course I was up with the sun well I was already up in reality so I packed up camp and headed to the amazing all you can eat sour dough pancake breakfast I had awaiting for me, which was amazing, I can say one thing about today, the food was excellent. I 4 pancakes total each the size of a plate, so I was full for pretty much the rest of the day. Ok remember how much I was saying how great south Dakota was, well the rest of the state is the complete opposite and consists of miles upon miles of corn farms which are all devoted to ethanol. One pleasant sight along the way was right outside my campsite I followed a route which took me straight through another section of the Badlands National Park which was a good morning sight. So I rode and rode and rode, and rode some more, all the same, lots of haying operations were going on as well. I was on I-90 heading east for about 100 miles and I can honestly say for every one car I counted twenty motorcycles heading west for I assume Sturgis. I met a couple Sturgis bound bikers at a gas station and I assured them that the beer will be cold when they got there, and that all the t-shirt stands are ready and waiting for them. Back on the road and riding, as for this particular 500 mile day I had the privilege of passing into Minnesota for my first time and I also got to see what the western portion of their state has to offer, which is more corn fields and hundreds of windmills.
So Minnesota is pretty flat and from the highway you could see windmills disappear into the curvature of earth, that is just how many they have there. So Ethanol and Wind power are rather prevalent forms of alternative energy in the great state of Minnesota, kudos to them. Ethanol is so prevalent that 89 octane gas with ethanol is actually cheaper than 87 octane gas without ethanol! But overall gas is cheap everywhere in Minnesota, which got as low as $3.50 something in some places! As the sun got lower on the horizon I was getting a bit hungrier, and I should have mentioned earlier but I acquired a new found love of fast food on this adventure which is Dairy Queen, recently the Q as I will refer to it has beefed up their menu, no pun intended and they have tons of burgers and such, and they are good, really good. But not all Q’s carry the burgers and it took me 4 tries to find one that had a menu other than icy treats. Much to my surprise at the Q I stopped in at there was a fellow biker by the name of Pat, He was rather curious about my trip and where I had been, Pat is somewhat of an endurance rider and he told me about one Iron butt ride he did and if you’re not familiar with the iron butt association then you should check it out, but for those who don’t have the time its basically like a long distance riding club and if you complete particular rides you can be in the association, an example of one would be to ride 1,000 miles within 24 hours. Ok so Pat was telling me more and more about the association and I got to thinking, what if I did an Iron Butt ride to culminate the end of my adventure, I did some more thinking and I’m going to research some rides later and find out if one suits me. I feel that this would most likely be the best time to try an Iron Butt ride since I have basically been training for marathon riding for the past 2 months and if I was ever in condition to do an endurance ride it would be now. http://ironbutt.com/ here is the website for anyone curious, other examples of rides they have would be Ride all lower 48 states in 10 days, 5,000 miles in 5 days, or Coast to Coast in under 50 hours. So you get the picture. After some delicious dairy queen burgers I was just too full to get the culminating blizzard. Oh I also forgot to mention something along with the amazing food that made the day better was that Margaret Ann officially got back states side today from her UK adventure. I still had almost 100 miles to go to get to my hostel in Minneapolis after eating and I wasn’t in a rush but I couldn’t dilly dally. Well as soon as the sun set and it got dark which I might add I hate to ride in the dark because of all the added dangers i.e., deer, drunk drivers, ect ect. So I was being extra cautions and defensive on my drive when all of a sudden out of nowhere a blaze of blue and red flashing lights illuminates my path behind me, and I had this deep sinking feeling, great a ticket just what I needed that and I wasn’t even close to the Hostel, I hope this wouldn’t take long because I just didn’t want to cut it close, the Hostel closes its doors at 10 pm. I pulled over not really knowing why I was pulled over because for one I don’t speed, I cant actually, Maverick gets best gas mileage while running at 4,000 rpm which carries me at a brisk 65 mph, so speeding was out of the question. The officer comes up then another cruiser arrives oh great more to add to the party. I dismount and hand over my papers, well turns out my rear brake light was out, and a trucker saw it and radioed to the troopers to flag me down and let me know, how nice of him. Well my bulb wasn’t burnt out the light still came on when I squeezed on the brakes just the running light was out, a fuse most likely however I just did not have the time to take off my boxes take off the seat to get to the fuses and figure out which one went.

While the officers were commiserating in their cruisers over my fate a truck came by and whooom, a gust of air blew maverick right off balance and it toppled into the shoulder, ah even better, my highway patrol incident was getting better by the second, not to mention my tank bag was open as usual just like the last time Mav went down, and my coins went all scatter brain over the shoulder along with my wallet and gloves which I had to borrow the cops flash lights to use to find them in the brush. Ok so I got off with a warning and they told me to go to the first gas station and repair my tail light, well I didn’t have much time at all so I raced to the gas station took of the light case and I grabbed some glow sticks out of my bag snapped em and tossed them into the brake light housing screwed the cover back on and magic I had running lights again, and you know what they are still on! So I was pretty impressed with my MacGyver skills and I was back on the road, the Garmin reported that I would arrive at the hostel promptly at 9:59, so with just one minute to spare I made up some time on the freeway and I got closer into Minneapolis I knew I was going to make it I just knew it, however Minneapolis failed to tell me that they were undergoing ridiculous amounts of highway construction and it seemed as though every exit ramp I was suppose to take was either closed or had a detour luckily my Garmin was smart enough to re route me however at each re route there were more closed ramps and soon I was out of options, and it was getting very close to 10 pm, finally I found a back road route to the hostel and I was gunning it, I found the place parked the bike and raced to the door, it was 10:02 and yes they were close, I was so mad, so very very mad. I had come all this way with just 2 minutes between me and a nice comfy and cheap might I add bed! But no, in my anger I made sure I revved my engine extremely loud as I left the hostel in search of other cheap abodes. Something I failed to recognize in my search was that Minneapolis is a pretty pricy city, the first place I called wanted $289 for a room, compared to the measly $27 I would have paid at the Hostel. So I search around some more and I talk to some locals and finally I realized I would have to leave the city if I wanted some cheap digs which brought me to the Super Motel 8 in Roseville. Nice accommodations, internet I might add, I have the privacy of my own room which I wouldn’t have at the hostel and I got a late check out, because in my marathon of a day today I crossed from the mountain time zone to central which I failed to realize and I lost an hour, so an extra hour for checkout helps me out with catching back that hour of sleep! Ok well this has gone on long enough but moral of the story is check your gear in the morning, or just plain check it, because if I had noticed the tail light out earlier I would have remedied the situation with out the assistance of the Minnesota state police. Well it is late and I must get to bed.

Monday, July 28, 2008

A little bit of Washington, All of Montana and South Dakota

June 24th

Up early and riding, today was just a driving day no sightseeing really. I rode and rode and rode then I rode some more, I took a fairly scenic route as my road atlas indicated. I crossed into Montana today and I must say Montana is just as beautiful and amazing as I left it 2 summers ago. Before I crossed into Montana I stopped to get some gas and I was absolutely starving and I asked a couple people where I should go to get food in this town I was in and everyone said I had to go to this place called Owen’s which was an old fashion soda shop, and it was of course amazing they make all their sandwiches fresh right there and I got a vanilla and black cherry malt. Yum! I made it as far as West Glacier and I bedded down there for the night in what was a luxury RV park but they were nice enough to let a lowly tent camper like myself in.

June 25th

Ah finally I made it to Glacier, I had been wanting to come here for years. And that summer I spent in Montana did not help one bit, I was clear on the other side of the state so I never had the opportunity to make it up here when I was working in Montana. Everyone along the way these past two months has said oh you have to go to Glacier, well here I am! However I picked to go on a bad day, it was the weekend so yes it was crowded, very crowded. They were also doing construction in the park so I had to wait for almost 10 minutes at a time stopped in traffic. Aside from the traffic it was a great place to be. My only regret is that I didn’t spend longer there. I know that I have to come back now because there were just too many hikes that I wanted to do. I would really like to spend a couple days here just backpacking. I took it slow going through Glacier just enjoying the main road which ran through the park called ‘Going to the Sun Road’. The highest drivable point in the park is Logan Pass which is where I crossed back over the continental divide, unlike the first time when I crossed back at independence pass on my way to Aspen I was at something of 12,000 feet, while Logan pass was at just 6,000 or so feet. Like the rest of the park when I got to the top at Logan pass the parking lot was filled completely! Luckily though I have a motorcycle and there was a plethora of motorcycle parking, I even found a spot amongst several other KLRs, so I felt right at home. While there I met a really nice couple on two red KLRs whom have been all over on them. They have done two trips down to Panama which I think would be an amazing ride, and is a pipe dream of mine, basically any ride down into south America would be amazing to do. We talked bike for a while exchanged some stories and parted ways. They offered to let me stay with them as I would be passing near their house however my route changed and I ended up going another way, and why do I know this already, because I am typing this blog several days late. So I had planned on making it to a town called Lewistown last night named in honor of the famed Lewis and Clark explorers however I did not make it there, I did make it to the banks of the Missouri river to a town called Fort Benton, it was small and quaint and I stayed in the windiest campground thus far which was on the banks of the Missouri river. The ride from Glacier to Fort Benton was rather uneventful, lots of straight roads and lots of haying and combines running all over the place.

June 26th

I call today marathon day, as it is the most miles I’ve covered the entire trip, 517 to be exact in a single day, and 498 of those miles was completely straight, and 0.1 miles was an actual dirt interstate. I awoke early I mean really early for once, at 8:45 and I was on the road by 9, in my haste I most likely forgot all the essentials, but who cares I was on the road early and I had to because I had a bazillion miles to cover. I hightailed it to a town well I couldn’t even call it that it was more of a stop sign junction, but there was a sign that said free Wi-Fi and delicious breakfast so I had to stop. I was craving some real breakfast food and that is what I got. Three huge slices of French toast on fresh bread, 3 crispy and greasy slices of bacon, and a gigantic plate of hash browns, oh wow I was in heaven and a nice glass of free Wi-Fi to top it off. I managed to get some emailing taken care of and as you can tell no blogging was done, I just didn’t have enough time. So I got back on the road and I was racing, well not really the speed limit in Montana is a hearty 75 mph which is what maverick runs at when the throttle is wide open. So I rode and rode and rode, not much to see, a smattering of grain towns here and there but that was about it. Along the way I began seeing more and more bikers which was a welcomed relief. I hadn’t planned on making any stops today but on my way I just happened to pass Custer’s Last Stand National Monument which of course I had to stop at. And let me tell you there were even more bikers here than I had seen on the road, and they were all headed the same place I was, that wonderful south Dakota motorcycle friendly town of Sturgis. Well I didn’t spend long at the monument it was just too hot and I was just too antsy to get back on the road. As I was riding I had noticed that I was burning fuel at an exorbitant rate, usually I will get about 220 to 230 miles until I have to turn on my reserve tank however I was turning to my reserve tank at 170 and 180 miles into my ride which was not a pleasant feeling. So I reevaluated some things and I realized I was running at a good 7000 rpm which is close to redline and if I backed off maybe to a more moderate 4500 rpm then I would get better gas mileage. Because believe it or not gas sipping maverick was getting a whopping 36 mpg whereas I normally get around 40 to 50 mpg. So yes I had to change my driving habits, so what if it took me longer I would be saving a boat load on gas. Well it worked, and I kept my rpm’s down to 4500 sometimes I peaked at 5000 to pass a slow truck or something but I got way better mileage, up until now I have been on a lot of twisty back roads which has kept me from running full throttle, engine wide open, blazing 80 mph. Today was a three stater day for me which was pretty cool I left Montana, crossed into Wyoming for a bit and I am now in South Dakota. On my way I stopped at a gas station to fill up some water in my nalagene which reminds me of another thing rather sad that I must tell you later. Ok so anyways I stopped in for some water and I saw two bikers one on a Honda 650 cc dirt bike loaded down and another Harley with a unique trailer. The trailer this guy was towing was shaped like a boat, so it looked like he was towing a miniature boat I thought it was way cool and he said he drove all the way from Wyoming to Alabama to pick it up from some guy who custom makes them. Ok so back to this kid on the dirt bike, his dad bought it in Texas and he lives in Washington so he was riding this dirt bike all the way back to Washington, I was quite impressed I mean his bike was even more dirt worthy than my maverick! Ok so I got back on the road and drove some more, and I must say South Dakota is quite a beautiful state, the black hills are amazing and its just something I have never seen before. I rolled into Sturgis close to 9 pm and boy was I spent. So Sturgis is famous for hosting one of the biggest motorcycle rallies in the world, and you know what, I came the week before it starts! But that is probably a good thing because I wouldn’t have gotten this sweet campsite if I came a week later. This town is totally devoted to motorcycles and I am very happy to be here, my campsite even has its own beer garden which I will be visiting after this post is complete, and it is, so I will fill you in more on tomorrows events of some good dual-sporting in the black hills and my first visit to Mt Rushmore!!!
June 27th
South Dakota has got to be one of the most under rated states in the continental US, because I must say I was completely and utterly impressed by how awesome North Dakota’s little brother is. I woke up late today because it was a long day yesterday and a long night, I met tons of other bikers at the Beer Garden, they had dollar drafts so that was very good news for me. I relaxed at the campsite in the morning with no particular schedule to follow for the day. When I did get on the road I headed back into the town of Sturgis to the main drag to check out all the commotion. Since the rally is next week the town is basically still being built, I must say I think if you came here in the winter then there would be nothing, not even a month ago would there be anything. I think this entire town survives on these two weeks of biker mayhem. Everywhere I went people were telling me good thing I came this week because everything doubles in price and there isn’t even enough room to park a motorcycle! A rough estimate puts it at over 500,000 bikers swarm this sleepy Dakota town the first two weeks in August every year. I kid you not there were construction crews all over the place literally building the town I saw bars that were not even finished yet no tables chairs not even a bar. While in Sturgis I did what any biker does and I bought a bike rally t-shirt for that one day when I by some chromed out Harley, I will have something to wear then. I was pretty pumped to get on the road once I left Sturgis because I found some great trails on my map through the Black Hills. Before I got to the trails I passed through an old west town called Deadwood, which I did not find out until after I was 100 miles away that every couple hours the town has western gun fights in the street for all the tourists. Riding in the black hills was awesome the forest roads in there are innumerable I could have spent a good week just exploring, but my time was limited. I rode for about 30 miles of dirt roads and it put me out near Mount Rushmore. More excitement ensued, however when I got to the gate come to find out they charge $10 just to park. Ok I know I drove all this way and what’s another $10 but I just wasn’t having this. Even with my National Park pass I still couldn’t get in, So instead of getting an up close look at Mount Rushmore I saw it from the highway which was good enough for me. Once you leave the Mt Rushmore area it gets really touristy, then nothing, absolutely nothing, flat grassland for miles and miles, it was really an amazing site and I was riding right around sunset time so it was even more amazing looking. I drove through Badlands National Park for a bit which was very cool to see, and then I found a nice campground with a pool and all, plus in the morning they have an all you can eat pancake breakfast which I cannot wait to try out! Tomorrow is another high mileage day, today was easy just 150 miles or so, but tomorrow I’m driving all the way to the Twin Cities in Minnesota!

Friday, July 25, 2008

The Pacific Northwest and the day I turned my compass East..

July 18th

My time spent in Portland was short; however it just leaves me more to see the next time I come to the west coast. I drove around the city for a bit and ate lunch at a quirky place which Let’s Go recommended to eat at, which was Roxy’s in I assume it was downtown Portland. Similar to San Fran and most other West coast cities everyone there rides bikes. Everyone. Roxy’s was good and was also able to bring my laptop in and do some emailing and other assorted work, no blog updating though, as you may very well tell from the delay in this update. I left Roxy’s for the dreaded Interstate 5 which I had to take all the way up to Seattle where I would be staying for a few days with my great Aunt and Uncle. I really dislike driving on the interstates and I avoid them at all cost, however I had somewhere I needed to be and this was the most direct route. I arrived in Federal Way on the outskirts of Federal Way in the early evening to a warm welcome from my Aunt Anne and Uncle Frank. It really was great to get there finally to Seattle and to see them and I was glad I was spending some extra time there with Aunt Anne and Uncle Frank. My Uncle Frank had a full itinerary planned for me which was good because of course being in a new city I have no idea what to do or where to go, so it is good to have a local show you around. That evening they took me out to dinner at their club and I got to have a real Pacific Northwest salmon, and it was the most amazing thing I have eaten on my entire trip. It definitely is in contention for best meal against the Southern Delight Special I had at Hyman’s in Charleston whilst visiting Chris Back. Tomorrow my Seattle adventure will begin!
July 19th
Arising early, my Aunt Anne and Uncle Frank left to pick up my Mom’s Cousin Judy whom would be going with us to the awesomeness that is Mount Rainer. Now all I remember or know that is of Mount Rainer is what I read one time in Boy’s Life Magazine when I was probably 8 or 9. I just remember it being a really serious mountain and it having varied weather conditions and how dangerous it was to climb. Other than that I knew it was big, a fourteener at that, however I would not be climbing this fourteener as I do not even own adequate equipment. I enjoyed spending time with Judy and I got some real insight into my next adventure after this, which would be getting a dog. We drove all over Mount Rainer and saw some amazing sights, like the Rockies there was tons of snow still on the mountain itself. We drove by reflecting lake however it was not reflecting on this particular day due to the wind, so it was more like ripple lake. When we got to the main Mount Rainer visitors center we grabbed lunch and then Judy and I decided to take a quick hike up the mountain however much to our surprise the mountain had so much snow this year that the walking trail was completely covered in snow, it was basically like walking up a ski slope; we got all of 20 feet and had to turn back because it was just too slippery. I forgot to mention that we also made a quick hike down to the Grove of the Patriarchs, which I highly recommend to anyone visiting Mount Rainer. What it is, is an old growth forest which is completely surrounded by water and had been protected from any forest fires so the trees are absolutely huge in there. My Aunt Anne and I held our hands out and we didn’t even span the width of an entire tree! So Rainer was basically awesome, and to top it all off I had mentioned that I really like Mexican food, and Judy said that she knew of a really good place that their family goes all the time. So we went there and I got to see the rest of my mom’s side of the family as well. The food, wow it was like I was back in the south west riding when I ate burritos every day at every stop I made. At the conclusion of the day I was completely exhausted from my big day at Mount Rainer. I was extremely glad that I got to go there and that my family took me, it was one national park trip that I will definitely not forget.

July 20th

For my next adventure with Aunt Anne and Uncle Frank I got to spend the day in Seattle. That morning we went to mass; two weekends in a row, I’m on a roll! After church we headed into the city and passed through all the shipping ports and a small fact about me that you are privileged to know is that I am absolutely fascinated with shipping ports, so much so I spent about half my time looking for a job specifically in the shipping industry, however I didn’t exactly spend all my time in school working towards a degree in that field, it was just something that really interested me. So going to the ports was a big deal for me, I got to see all the container ships along with all the cruise liners. We then made our way over to pike street which is known for all the fish markets and open air vendors, along with an assortment of other things. This is also where they throw the fish around, which was rather cool to see. Walking through the market on an empty stomach was a big mistake for me because there was so much food, but luckily they had a plethora of free samples which I took full advantage of. The seafood in Seattle is not like any seafood I have ever seen, they had scallops which were the size of baseballs, and I think the biggest ones I have ever eaten had to be the size of quarters, so there was definitely a big difference between the seafood here and everywhere else, that and it was completely fresh! Ok so I watch a lot of Discovery Channel specifically Deadliest Catch and I got to see all the Alaskan King Crab legs that were on sale at the market and wow those things are gigantic. Watching it on tv and seeing the real thing is completely different, I should also mention that these things cost a whoping $15.00 a pound! Another highlight of the market was getting to see some street performer figure out a rubix cube in all of 30 seconds. I couldn’t spend thirty years and figure one of those things out. Lunch time rolled around and we made our way over to the Seattle Sky Needle where we had the biggest meal ever, and I mean biggest because I was full for the next three days. Im actually still slightly full right now and I’m typing this a full four days later. It was three courses and the whole time we were in a restaurant that turned around, ie you sit in one place and the restaurant rotates around so you get to see the entirety of Seattle. Of course I got the salmon again and it was fresh and delicious and amazing, which is the usual case I have come to find out for Seattle seafood. Having not ridden a seattle ferry yet we took the Bainbridge ferry to go see Chief Seattle’s grave. The Puget sound I might add is rediculisouly big, since Im actually writing this a few days later and I have since taken three different ferrys all of which I have been on a minimum of 30 minutes a piece! It was very interesting to see the grave of the person who basically brought everyone to this particular regon and was later infueltial enough to have an entire city named after him. The ferry ride back was a little delayed as there was a long line to get on the ferry back to the mainland. When we got back I again had a rediculsy amazing good night’s sleep, and I got to sleep in the next morning as well, and in a real bed too with a real pillow not a threma rest with an inflated camel back blatter as a head rest.

July 21st

One thing I should mention is that not only has this been an amazing trip in that I am seeing some of the most beautiful parts of America, but I am also getting the chance to see some of my family whom I do not get the chance to see as much as I would like to. At the conclusion of this trip I will have seen every one of my aunts uncles and cousins on both my mom’s and dad’s side of the family. So it has really meant a lot to have this opportunity, if nothing else I will always remember the time I have spent with my family this summer. Today was a down day for me, no touring no sightseeing, and definitely no eating as I stuffed myself the day before at the Sky Needle on some amazing food, hungry as I am now I wish I had my Aunt’s bread pudding….. mmmmm. Today Mav got a much needed oil change and I also replaced the welded on shifter lever that some of you may have read about a month back. To anyone who doesn’t know, I was in Southern New Mexico leaving my campground when I pulled in the clutch and shifted to the next gear when my shift lever just fell right off, the metal had sheared completely off and I had to call my tow company to bring me to a welding shop where this guy John 90 years young welded my shift lever back on and it has done me well ever since Truth or Consequences New Mexico, yes that’s the name, Wikipedia it for more info as to why it’s named that. I put the new after market shifter on and it works like a dream, as strong as good old John’s weld was, it wasn’t just quite perfect and the shifter was rubbing against the engine casing which made shifting a bit of a burden, the new MSR shifter shifts as smooth as butter, its like a whole new maverick! I should also add that in my down time I planned my entire rest of my trip all the way back to Virginia, and for everyone wondering when I will be making my return, I should tentatively be back in the Northern Virginia area around August 12ish, but not without a stop in Michigan and the biggest motorcycle rally in the world, Sturgis South Dakota!!!!!! What a way to end my triumphant journey with a huge motorcycle rally!
July 22nd

I departed early from Seattle, the earliest of any of my departures at that! My aunt Anne made me an awesome sandwich which I am not accustomed to seeing that I am on the road all the time; however this sandwich was a welcomed relief from the peanut butter crackers and tuna fish I have been eating for lunch this past two months. (please note, I am typing this three days in delay and I should also mention that I will most likely have any number of wild animals in my campsite after I go to bed as I have been drinking a nice bottle of wine I picked up at an Oregon vineyard and I have also been eating the left over oyster crackers which I bought for the chicken noodle soup I had. However the chicken noodle soup is all gone now and I just have the crackers, but they make great wine snacking food. But the more wine I had the more crackers I dropped so there are many crackers scattered about my campsite. Cross your fingers no raccoons try to drive maverick away in search of more oyster crackers after they eat all the ones I left all scatterbrained all over the place!) Today I went against everyone suggestions and I drove south to Olympia Washington which meets up with highway 101 that takes you basically the entire way around Olympic national park. So Olympic is amazing if you have the time which I did not, as soon as I got into the park which took me 2 hours from federal way to accomplish, I realized that I did not have enough time to see the sights I wanted to see and make the ferry I was destined for. So I basically raced through Olympic all 400 miles of the entire circumference to make it to the port Townsend ferry which later took me to Anacortes which later took me to Shaw Island but that is another story, and a long one at that! Ok so I raced through Olympic I saw Ruby beach, everyone must see this place its beautiful, it’s unreal, I also went to Hoh Rain forest, again very amazing go there if you get the chance. I then raced from 101 to port Angeles and on to port Townsend. I should let you know if you want to go to the famed hurricane ridge which thousands of people told me to see and I missed because I was going to miss my ferry. So I raced to port Townsend to make my ferry by just two minutes. I got on and much to my surprise there was another bike on board, a great guy by the name of Randy. Now randy had spent the past week on the road coming from Glacier, which is where I am headed. With randy being a local he had a plethora of local info for me, and since he had nowhere to be that day he was like ok so you’re going to Anacortes well your ferry doesn’t leave till nine I will show you around so he took me all over the place. Albeit my 650 cc was no match for his 1000cc Suzuki SV which is of course my dream bike behind a loaded BMW adventure GS, but that is another story in and of itself. So my ultimate destination was Shaw Island in the San Juan Island chain where a fellow Virginia Alum by the name of Sara was staying. I should let you know Sara and I have basically had the exact same route for the past month. She started up the West coast right around when I was heading north on the Pacific Coast Highway and we have basically been a day apart in destinations since then, however like I mentioned before she saw me in Crater Lake visiting with the Country 99.7 RV guys and we have since been meeting up. Honestly it is good to have a familiar face on the road as it gets very very lonely being by yourself as I am tonight, I also sure do wish MA was here! So I hung out with Randy for a while he drove me all over Whibley Island and we grabbed dinner in Anacortes at this pizza slash beer joint it was good and I enjoyed some good company. Randy and I met three guys on BMW Adventure GS’s and well being the true to KLR owner I am I was not impressed by their heavy 1200 cc bikes. The BMW GS is a great bike albeit it is heavy and not made for the stuff I am into. I do not mean to be condescending but these guys were obvisely investment bankers or retired trust fund babies who had the money to buy some amazing bikes which they had no business riding. Sorry for the harsh animosity I just do not like nor do get along with someone who rides a GS all over the country then stays in a hotel. I mean please that bike is made for world touring do not ruin it by staying in a holiday inn everywhere you go. If I had it my way I would have asked those guys to follow me for a week and then we would see who had the last laugh. Ok Ok I should stop now they were nice people but I just had to let you in the low down on the dual sport biking community. Kawasaki KLR’s are better than any multi thousand dollar BMW GS you can ever find! So I parted ways with Randy and raced to catch my Ferry which took me an hour and ten minutes to get to Shaw Island. When I pulled onto the ferry the guy ushering me on looks at my plates and says to me wow you came all the way from Virginia to go to Shaw Island and I replied yes. Apparently Shaw island is small…. Very small it’s just seven square miles, I drove the entire thing just trying to find my campsite.

July 23rd

Familiar faces was a good thing. Seeing fellow east coasters on one of the most northwestern islands in the continental united states minus all the Alaskan islands was a welcomed sight. Everyone was up early to catch the 9:35 ferry off the island which was of course late. Waiting in line for the ferry I met a nice fellow by the name of Dave who has a BMW bike, which I was not offended by as he was much nicer and mellower than the cocky fellows I met the day before at the bar with Randy. We talked bikes and traveling for a while and I really enjoyed some relaxed conservation on bikes for once. The ferry was late of course and I didn’t make my way on until 10ish and I didn’t make it in to Anacortes until late 11ish. As soon as I got into town I high-tailed it east. Today I forgot to mention is officially called East Day, as this is the day that I officially turned my compass and head back east. Sad it is that I will not see the Pacific Ocean until I return again, soon hopefully! So yes today June 23rd is East Day and forever here on out I will celebrate today as East Day. I am celebrating by imbibing on a delicious bottle of Oregon Wine, a cabernet sauvignon that is. So the ride was epic, much twisties much mountains, it actually warmed up a bit too, but I finally made my way to just west of Kettle Falls, I am currently in a National Park Camp ground on a beautiful lake, however its beauty is minimized by the barking dog I have heard for the past hour which is about a half a mile away yet still yapping; I sure do hope I can make it to bed tonight, shut up fido!

Friday, July 18, 2008

From So Cal to the Oregon and a lot of things in between.

July 9th and 10th, 2008

Central California greeted me with a big cloud of fog followed by an even bigger cloud of smoke and said smoke and fog have since combined into a foggy misty smoky mess. After leaving the Orange County area I left via the Pacific Coast Highway, I made a quick stop at my Uncle’s office to say bye and to pick up some last minute provisions at the Kawasaki dealer, and I was on my way northbound. I made my way through Hollywood which I briefly toured, I passed by the famed Chinese Theater, and I saw a bunch of people dressed up in various movie celebrity costumes. I saw a Jack Sparrow, some of the Incredible, and a Batman.
I did not spend long in Hollywood and I was rather disappointed because I wanted to take a picture of me in front of the well known Hollywood letters however I could not find a good place to get a picture, I did see them briefly as I was coming into town on one of the highways. I then headed a little further north via Sunset Blvd to Beverly Hills which was quite a site to see. I probably spent a better part of my day in Beverly Hills. It is everything and more that the movies make it to be. Tons of huge houses, tons of nice cars, and tons of star maps for sale. Instead of getting a star map I just took one of the first lefts I saw off Sunset Blvd in Beverly Hills and headed into a neighborhood, and luck have it there was other people doing the same thing however they were on open air buses, doing the ‘star tour’ so I followed a bus here and a bus there just listening to what the tour guide was saying. I didn’t drive past any notable movie star houses, or at least any that I knew. Most of the actors and actresses houses that I heard about on the tour were from an era before mine. About an hour of house looking I made my way down from the ‘hills’ to Rodeo Drive, but first I had to get gas, and luck have it there is one gas station in all of Beverly Hills that was near me and guess where it was located, yes at the intersection of the Beverly Hills Hotel and Rodeo Drive. This gas station was no ordinary one at that, it had Rodeo Drive prices to go along with it, I mean this gas was even expensive for California standards. Well I parked Mav right up next to the Rovers, Maseratis, and Royce’s filling up and Mav got his own. I took a stroll down Rodeo Drive and I stopped in the David Yurman store to see if I could pick anything up for MA but the only thing they guy showed me there was a pair of $1,100 pearl and diamond encrusted earrings, so maybe next time MA. I really enjoyed my time in Beverly Hills it was just so nice and it was really cool to see the place where all the movies have talked about for the longest time. Ok so when I was driving out of Bev Hills I was riding down Rodeo Drive which has lots of stops and there was this white old Rolls Royce with this guy driving it and some girl hanging all over him, and lots of people were looking so I was like ok it must be someone famous of course, so I finagled my way up next to the Royce and we were next to each other for the next five stop signs and luck have it, I was driving next to the one P. Diddy or Sean Combs as he is now referred to. I waved to him and he smiled and I kept on my way Santa Monica Blvd to Malibu. Malibu is another awesome place; there was not too much fog yet so it was a good drive along the coast, cold but good. Lots of amazing houses perched over the sea. I was lucky to find one of the last camp sites available at Point Mugu State Park. However after I made camp, they apparently booked someone else at my site as well and not wanting to be alone, I said that I would share the site with them since it was big and all I had was my bike and tent, so in exchange they built a fire and I got to have somores with them! The next morning I slept in a little longer than I should have and I got a late start on the pacific coast highway but that didn’t matter because it was foggy as usual. I went up PCH, and passed through beach town after beach town, my favorite stop of all was Ventura where I purchased some camping provisions from Real Cheap Sports, which is a stop everyone should make if you’re passing through Ventura. I then went to the Patagonia store and they gave me Patagonia Ventura California Stickers, where one of the employees asked if I lost my buddy because he said not five minutes before I showed up a guy on a KLR loaded down had just stopped in. He was on his way back from a trip of the West from Mexico to Alaska! I passed through Santa Barbara next and I drove through the University of Southern California Santa Barbara, which is a really nice campus. I then did the 2 mile drive down State Street in Santa Barbara which is an amazing tree lined street with every store imaginable on it. It was getting late so I had to bed down for the night and I knew it was going to be hard again to find a camp site. Oh one quick note I apologize about not talking about the ride on PCH very much but there really wasn’t much to talk about because well the entire road was covered in Fog and smoke so I couldn’t even see the ocean from the road! Someone had mentioned this place called Pismo Beach where you can drive off road and camp on the beach so I was so there! I got to Pismo and it was Foggy and Misty and I inspected the sand to make sure Mav wouldn’t sink into the sand, but it was pretty well packed down from all the trucks and dune buggies driving on it. I aired down the tires to about 10 and 15 psi so I would have better traction in the sand and it made a really big difference! It was still a little slippery but not too bad. So I rode for about a mile in the dunes and it was packed with people, everyone had huge huge lifted trucks and behind them they towed gigantic trailers homes, with huge doors on the back which housed every kind of dune buggy ATV and dirt bike known to man. The place says 15 mph but people were racing at like mach speed around the dunes, I kept Mav at a respectable 15 mph however not too slow because if I stopped I was afraid I would get stuck in the sand, so I had to keep my speed going, it was fun driving on the beach, I even rode a little into the water, there was also a lot of people on horses on the beach which was cool to see as well. So I found a nice packed sand area near some big trucks and trailers and I had a bit of wine made some delicious tuna fish and ramen and I bedded down. It was misty raining all night long so I didn’t want to spend long outside. I slept great in the sand, but I was woken up at 6 am to the sound of dirt bikes and ATVs racing around the dunes. I was up early and on the road further north. I was excited today at the hopes of maybe the fog clearing up but that didn’t happen. I drove up through San Luis Obispo got a good breakfast at a local coffee shop which had wireless so I was able to get online and pay some bills and take care of some emailing and blog updating. Back on the road around 12ish and I was headed to Hearst Castle which I was really excited to go see. Words cannot describe how awesome this place is, and how huge it is. Ok so there are 7 different tours and each one is about two hours long! I did the first tour which was recommended for first time visitors and I saw a really good national geographic video about the making of Hearst Castle. Now this place is so big it had two airfields that Mr. William R. Hearst used to fly in guests. The likes of Emilia Earhart, Howard Hughes, and Charles Limburg also were guests and flew into the Hearst Castle as well. The list of persons who were guests of Mr. Hearst reads like a laundry list of actors, politicians, media moguls and millionaires of the early 1900s. If anyone has the chance it is a sight to see! And to describe the architecture there is near impossible each building is different, there are roman, Greek, Italian, Japanese, Swiss, Moroccan, Egyptian, and English influences in each building. One way to describe the main grand building is a Japanese Swiss Bungalow. Now if that makes any sense to you then be my guest to write a description of what these buildings looked liked. Again I cannot even describe how amazing it is. After leaving the Hearst compound I started to head north on PCH again however turns out there is a huge forest fire in Big Sur, the best part of the PCH drive and I had to backtrack about 50 miles to get to a detour, which I was not too happy about. I had to take boring hwy 101 all the way to Monterey where I am now, and I didn’t get in until 10 pm tonight, it was very tough to find an open campground or a non full campground or a campground at that. It’s on to San Francisco tomorrow to stay with my good friend from Egypt Ben!

July 11th 12th, and 13th, 2008
After a misty night in Laguna Seca campground, which I might add is the home of 2008 Moto GP, I headed to Monterey California. Now Monterey wasn’t as spectacular as I thought it was going to be which may be due in part to the tremendous amounts of fog which were blanketing the entire area. Due to the fog my stay in Monterey was brief. In addition to the fog I forgot to mention that the entire Laguna Seca was covered in smoke from the forest fires which have been scorching the California coast. The smoke was so dense that I could not see the campsite next to me, which made riding all the more hazardous. While in Monterey I stopped in at their historic wharf and cannery row, as made famous by author and extraordinaire John Steinbeck. One site I did like in Monterey was Lighthouse Field State Beach, which is an awesome several mile drive along the cliffs in Monterey through the old historic homes of the city. So to one side are these huge majestic beach houses and to the other side are sheer cliffs with tons of surfers enjoying the waves. A few days before at my campsite just North of Malibu I met a couple who told me that I had to definitely go to Santa Cruz so go I did. One of my favorite things to do on my trip is to visit college campuses so by suggestion of the couple I met I went to University of California Santa Cruz, which is an awesome campus tucked into the mountains and forest. Santa Cruz like Monterey was foggy, something which I have begun to grow accustomed to on the California coast. Riding further north towards San Francisco the fog let up a bit more and I could actually see the ocean for once along Highway 1. A little after noon I finally had made it to San Francisco, where I had my triumphant reunion with Ben my best friend from 6th grade. Ben works as a Chef in San Francisco and is also something of a bike rider extraordinaire; as such he took me for a tour of the entire city via bike. First stop the painted ladies or as many of you may be more familiar with, the Full House houses. Now this row of houses was made ridiculously popular from the Intro to the 90s hit television show Full House. Ok saw the houses back to riding, and of all the cities I’ve been through thus far San Fran has to be the most bicycle friendly place ever. The tour Ben gave me was awesome, we went up the popular and busy Market Street, and through the financial district, along the water, past Alcatraz, through the touristy Wharf, and then back to a city park where I caught my breath and Ben and I enjoyed some frosty beverages. It seems as though the open container laws are on par with other popular destinations of mine such as Las Vegas and New Orleans. Frosty beverages in the park turned out to be a great way to relax after a long day of riding both motorized and non motorized cycles. That evening Ben took me to an Indian slash Pizza restaurant in the Mission area. I subsequently went into a food coma after the amazing Indian pizza we had, along with a ton of other stuff. The next day in San Fran was my day to explore and check out the city as Ben had to go to work. I walked and walked and walked all over the place, first stop, Chinatown which rivals the real China. I swear that if it wasn’t for the American license plates that I sporadically saw then I would not have been able to tell the difference. Chinatown was fun and very busy and bustling. I kept on my way to the touristy Wharf to get some clam chowder in a bread bowl which I had been craving all day long, but before I could get that I stopped off at the famed Lombard street, the crookedness and steepest street in San Fran. There were tons of people there and the sidewalk is so steep that there are actually steps on it. The wharf was rather cool lots of tourists, lots of boats and I got to see Alcatraz, from afar that is. I decided that the next morning I would get up early and take a ferry to Alcatraz to do the tour however that would not be happening because turns out Alcatraz tickets were booked for almost a week straight so no jail tour which I was kind of bummed about. So I did the next best thing, I decided I would take a harbor tour via boat which takes you around Alcatraz and under the Golden Gate, ect ect. Ok so there are a bunch of tour boats at the wharf and some are huge with like over 30 people on them and others are small with just 6 people, which I much rather preferred. When I arrived to the Wharf to pick out my boat the 6 person one I wanted was out and would not be back for another hour, and in the mean time 10 of the other huge boats came and went, but I was determined to get on this historic wooden boat that seats 6. I wait and I wait and I wait, finally Serendipity comes back to its berth and I pay my $15 and I get aboard, so I wait and wait and wait until the captain can get 5 more people to round out our numbers to 6. However no one seems to be coming and the sun was getting low on the horizon. Two guys get on and we wait some more all we need is three more people. Well luck have it a family of 4 arrives and wishes to go on the tour, well this is when things started to go south. The Capitan actually kicked me off the boat, since only 6 were allowed to ride and it didn’t look like we were going to get our 3 we needed, and since I was by myself and the odd man out, I was kicked off the boat, and boy was I mad. I had waited specifically for this boat for over an hour, how’s that patronage for you. I angrily stomp down the wharf to the large 30 person boat and I get on board. The Capitan of my new boat asks me why the long face and I tell him my predicament, and he promises a good trip. I find a good spot at the front of the boat with a bunch of funny ladies in their mid 40s and we chat it up and I tell them my story and it ended up being along more fun than I had planned, they were very funny to talk to and I had someone to take my picture of me as we went under the Golden Gate Bridge. On our way back to the dock I really had to go to the bathroom, and luck have it they had one on the boat, and as I’m getting off the boat, the Captain stops me and says good thing you came aboard because the Serendipity didn’t have a bathroom onboard and it got stuck in the bay, so I was happy again. I make my way back to Ben’s and I get ready for the next day, and since I had seen basically everything I decided I would get on the road the next morning. Next morning rolls around I pack my things say my goodbyes and I get as far as the Golden Gate Bridge when I pull in the clutch to shift and I hear a snap, I look down and my clutch cable is hanging on by just two fine wires and had almost completely sheared off. Oh great another thing to break, and luck have it, it was Sunday so no motorcycle shops were open. So I Mav and I limped our way back to Ben’s, all the while I was praying that the two fine wires that were still connected wouldn’t snap and I would be clutch less. Being Sunday and being that I was a block away from one of the biggest Catholic Cathedrals on the west coast I made it to the 5:30 mass which was really good and in an amazing Cathedral. Afterwards the cookies and apple juice made up for the almost snapped clutch cable. That evening I walked to Chinatown as Let’s Go suggested I go to Chef Jia’s for some amazingly cheap and good Chinese food, and they really lived up to their reputation, they were cheap, for San Francisco standards and it was amazingly good, I had a spicy peanut chicken dish with sweet potatoes and white rice. Ok so let’s try this again, I wake up the next morning and I make my way to the Gold Coast Cycles, whom I might add were not the most friendly motorcycle dealer that I had visited, I pick up a new clutch cable, which I thought would have been tons of money however it was a measly $17 and it was also the easiest repair I had ever made. To right now I still cannot believe how easy it was to install, I keep looking at it just to make sure that I installed it correctly because it literally took just 10 minutes and I did it in the parking lot of a Chevron gas station. Once the clutch was repaired I left the city via the Golden Gate Bridge which didn’t charge going the northbound direction which was awesome. My first stop was a small town on the opposite side of the bay, called Sausalito, I moseyed around there for a bit, and it was rather touristy. I got a pastrami, Swiss cheese and avocado sandwich with grilled peppers and oil and vinegar and it was really good. The thing I like about my Let’s Go tour book is that it tells you places to go and the real truth behind them, and one of those places I read about was Bolinas California. The fact that I typed that very name in this blog has probably set off a chain of bad events for myself. See Bolinas is a small coastal town which does not like to be bothered, so much so that they remove any street signs and road signs directing you to their town, and it has stayed like this for decades. Thankfully though I have my trusty Garmin which is like Krypton to the Clark Kent’s of Bolinas. The town is awesome, they have amazing dark sand beaches, with surf shops and cafes all over the downtown area. It is not touristy at all and very down to earth. The folks of Bolinas are very environmentally friendly and there are homemade recycling signs all over the place. I really enjoyed my time in Bolinas and would love to have a house there someday, it is just so chill, I really think though that some of its residents think it is still the 60s or 70s. After leaving Bolinas I get back on highway 1 and I continue heading north. It was frigidly cold driving up the coast but the views were amazing, the fog and smoke had cleared and I could see all the way out into the ocean and all the craggy cliffs below the highway. There were tons of other motorcyclists out on highway 1 when I was riding, and I could see why, it has tons of twisties and switchbacks and amazing views. The riding was slow going though, I think I might have gone 17 miles and it took almost an hour. When the sun started to set I took the recommendation of a state park ranger to go to Salt Sea Campground. Luck have it when I pulled into my campsite, there were two Suzuki Dual sports parked right next to me and would you believe it they had United Kingdom license plates. Yes you are reading that right. I could not wait to meet my neighbors, they must be some real world travelers and yes they were. My neighbors were a young couple from Scotland who shipped their bikes to Alaska where they rode North to Prudhoe Bay, then headed south through Canada and were heading all the way to Tierra Del Fuego, the southernmost tip of south America. I must say I was very jealous of them and they had been on the road for about 4 weeks so far. We exchanged stories and seeing that they had come the way I was going they gave me all sorts of good places to go. I was really excited to meet fellow riders, and ones who were doing a trip of this caliber, that is just amazing. I wish them safe travels wherever they may be and I look forward to hearing back from them on the status of their trip! I think I have caught up on all the things that have happened the past few days, now its time to hit the hay.

July 15th 2008,

Tonight I sleep amongst the giants. After skirting the pacific coast for a better part of the day I made my way inland to drive among the redwoods. Today was an epic riding day, and a much needed one at that. The California coast has been rather disappointing with the ever present fog and the smoke and the bitter cold, however it was all made better by today’s ride. It was actually a rather cold morning when I awoke and since I was on the coast the fog had left me a nice misting for the entire night and my tent was soaked, well the rainfly that is, the inside was cozy and warm in my wonderful Marmot Trestles sleeping bag, which I highly recommend to anyone looking for a good bag (and the price was def right). So good sleep, cold wet morning, and a breakfast comprised of map reading and route planning, I was on my way. I hit the coastline highway around 11ish and my first stop was a small town called Medicino, which had the same architect and builder when the town was founded and all he made was Victorian sea houses. The town was rather touristy yet still had its northern California seaside small town charm to it. I stayed all of 5 minutes, because that was all it took to drive the entire town, and I was back on the highway. The coastline was beautiful; it was everything I had wanted to see for the longest time, jagged cliffs, crashing waves, blue waters, and mysteriously black sand beaches, with numerous hidden coves and desolate beaches. I made my way further north along the 1 until I got to a road named Usal Rd, which every dual sport rider should experience at one time in their life. At this point highway 1 heads inland but Usal road continues along the coastline, as it is a remimnant of the logging days, back when a single redwood yielded 22 houses. So back to Usal road, well it started out as bumpy gravel switchbacking its way up the coastal cliffs with some of the most epic views I have yet to see on my adventure. I was honestly shocked as to why no one else was on this amazing road, well albeit I know you need something rather rough road capable but it was really a great ride. I was on Usal Road for about 30 miles or so and I came to Sinkyone Wilderness State Park beach which was an awesome desolate black sand beach which I was able to ride Mav out onto. Well Sinkyone is not named Sinkyone for no reason because as soon as I got out on the sand I definitely sank into the sand, hence the sinky one! So after many tries I finally got Mav back on two wheels and I rolled on. Usal Road was as I said a remnant of logging and it was very evident, there were huge redwood stumps obviously cut down many years before my arrival as they were covered in moss. These stumps were absolutely gigantic though, I could have fit my entire bike on top of some of these stumps and I was absolutely awestruck by how someone with no power tools could possibly get a tree of this size out of these mountains. So more riding on Usal, it started getting pretty rutted out from jeeps and what not and I had to navigate these carefully because unlike the logging trucks that travel these routes frequently I have just two wheels. Mav went down a number of times but I am going to blame this on the fact that I have not been doing any dual sporting in almost a half a month! Well I made it to the end of Usal road, and I was rather sad because it was just an amazing ride, exactly what I wanted to do, a dual sport dirt road along the coast of the pacific, in the mountains with towering trees above me! I then met up with highway 101 and I headed to the avenue of giants which my Scottish riding friends the night before recommended I do. The avenue of giants aws an awesome ride, about 30 miles roughly of twisties through some of the biggest forests I have ever seen! At some of the turnouts through the avenue of giants there were downed redwoods and I parked Mav next to them and my bike didn’t even come close to being the width of some of these huge trees! Well I am now at one of the best campsites I have stayed at yet. I am on a river, with towering redwoods above me, the campsite is desolate and there is not a sole around me. I really cannot ask for anything more, that and I have the soundtrack to ‘into the wild’ courtesy of my good friend Ben blasting on my laptop. I will be very sad to leave here tomorrow, however not before I take a quick dip in the river. Tomorrow though will bring new and greater sights I will be making my way further inland to Crater Lake, which is another recommendation from my Scottish motor biking friends!
July 16th, 2008
With a fuel range comparable to that of most long haul trucks the Kawasaki KLR can get approximately 300 miles between fillips. If that doesn’t say much for you, this will, I filled up twice today. I had not done a long mileage day since probably that afternoon I was fed up of the desert at the Grand Canyon and I raced 5 hours through the 104 degree heat to the oasis known as Las Vegas. Well I don’t quite keep to a schedule but I had to in this case, I needed to be in Portland by tomorrow and Seattle the day after so there was much to see and many a mile to cover, and due to the high mileage day, I of course slept in and did not arise early as I should have. In any event I was on the road around 11ish and heading north east. Today I did a lot of gravel road riding which I was rather excited with, I needed some good dual sporting under these legs so the gravel roads between my camp and the Oregon state line were just what I was looking for! I headed east down hwy 36 to Kneeland road which is a twisty a half gravel half potholed pavement road connecting hwy 36 and hwy 299 in north eastern California. The weather was great the riding was good and Mav was running well. Somewhere between the town of Kneeland, if you can call it that, it was more like a stop sign, I was riding through some awesome turns, and there it was! I come around a bend, clutch in, shift up, throttle out and what is directly in my path but two Bambis. Just my luck I immediately shift down using as much of the engine brake as I can so I don’t lock the brakes, and I pump the front and rear brake to stop as quickly and as controlled as I could but to no avail the stupid deer just stood there and did not move. Finally they darted however their hoved feet were not the greatest in regards to traction on the blacktop and they spun out in an attempt to race for safety, sadly I nicked the one deer’s back leg with my front tire, but they were fine I saw they prancing around later on as if nothing happened. Well in any event when I put old Mav into such an extreme stop and I tried to turn the front tire to avoid Bambi’s leg when I turned the tire Mav went one way and I went the other and next thing I know the bike is down and I am sitting on the pavement. Well this has happened many a time, the bike going down that is, however at my last stop I seemed to forget to close the zipper on my tank bag and all my things went scatter brain all over the blacktop. Thankfully though Maverick, the Bambis and myself all walked away from the incident unscathed. Back on and riding, as per my new Scottish friends suggestion I took hwy 96 which is an amazing 127 mile road which follows a river and passes through Six Rivers National Forest. The ride was epic tons of twisties, lots of downshifting into turns and rolling on the throttle out of them, it was great! There were also a number of other motorcyclists on hwy 96 as well, however most of them were all sport bikes and I could see why they loved this place, you could lean into every turn for some peg scraping good fun! I met one rider at a gas stop on hwy 96 who was decked out in full race gear, he was headed on his way to Laguna Seca to see the Red Bull Moto GP, where I had just come from while in Monterey. Sadly though his two riding buddies got into a little accident and one of them dropped their bike, a nice bike at that, most likely slipped while coming into a turn on some gravel, so I believe one of them was going to have to ride 2 up with his buddy all the way to Laguna Seca…. Wow that’s a long drive! Hwy 96 continued on for many more miles until around the halfway point when it started to get very smoky due to the fires in the area. There were tons of fire crews positioned all along hwy 96 for as far as I could see, the smoke was pretty thick and it blocked the sun out completely. When I did look for it, the sun through the smoke turned everything into a foggy orange glow, which was rather earie. The smoke cleared towards the end of hwy 96 and I continued on to my campsite, the first one I picked was a state park with no running water and tons of mosquitoes and it was $8 so I left and rode on and I found this awesome motel run by what looked to be some equally awesome hippies. They charged me just $5 for a tent site and they had hot showers and running water and a fire was going. They also ran an organic grocery store where I picked up a delicious organic wheat beer to compliment my chicken noodle soup dinner. Tomorrow it’s on to Crater Lake, and I will surely set my alarm for an early time because after that I’ll be making my way to visit more friends in Portland!