Central California greeted me with a big cloud of fog followed by an even bigger cloud of smoke and said smoke and fog have since combined into a foggy misty smoky mess. After leaving the Orange County area I left via the Pacific Coast Highway, I made a quick stop at my Uncle’s office to say bye and to pick up some last minute provisions at the Kawasaki dealer, and I was on my way northbound. I made my way through Hollywood which I briefly toured, I passed by the famed Chinese Theater, and I saw a bunch of people dressed up in various movie celebrity costumes. I saw a Jack Sparrow, some of the Incredible, and a Batman.

I did not spend long in Hollywood and I was rather disappointed because I wanted to take a picture of me in front of the well known Hollywood letters however I could not find a good place to get a picture, I did see them briefly as I was coming into town on one of the highways. I then headed a little further north via Sunset Blvd to Beverly Hills which was quite a site to see. I probably spent a better part of my day in Beverly Hills.

It is everything and more that the movies make it to be. Tons of huge houses, tons of nice cars, and tons of star maps for sale. Instead of getting a star map I just took one of the first lefts I saw off Sunset Blvd in Beverly Hills and headed into a neighborhood, and luck have it there was other people doing the same thing however they were on open air buses, doing the ‘star tour’ so I followed a bus here and a bus there just listening to what the tour guide was saying. I didn’t drive past any notable movie star houses, or at least any that I knew. Most of the actors and actresses houses that I heard about on the tour were from an era before mine. About an hour of house looking I made my way down from the ‘hills’ to Rodeo Drive, but first I had to get gas, and luck have it there is one gas station in all of Beverly Hills that was near me and guess where it was located, yes at the intersection of the Beverly Hills Hotel and Rodeo Drive. This gas station was no ordinary one at that, it had Rodeo Drive prices to go along with it, I mean this gas was even expensive for California standards. Well I parked Mav right up next to the Rovers, Maseratis, and Royce’s filling up and Mav got his own. I took a stroll down Rodeo Drive and I stopped in the David Yurman store to see if I could pick anything up for MA but the only thing they guy showed me there was a pair of $1,100 pearl and diamond encrusted earrings, so maybe next time MA. I really enjoyed my time in Beverly Hills it was just so nice and it was really cool to see the place where all the movies have talked about for the longest time.

Ok so when I was driving out of Bev Hills I was riding down Rodeo Drive which has lots of stops and there was this white old Rolls Royce with this guy driving it and some girl hanging all over him, and lots of people were looking so I was like ok it must be someone famous of course, so I finagled my way up next to the Royce and we were next to each other for the next five stop signs and luck have it, I was driving next to the one P. Diddy or Sean Combs as he is now referred to. I waved to him and he smiled and I kept on my way Santa Monica Blvd to Malibu. Malibu is another awesome place; there was not too much fog yet so it was a good drive along the coast, cold but good. Lots of amazing houses perched over the sea. I was lucky to find one of the last camp sites available at Point Mugu State Park. However after I made camp, they apparently booked someone else at my site as well and not wanting to be alone, I said that I would share the site with them since it was big and all I had was my bike and tent, so in exchange they built a fire and I got to have somores with them!

The next morning I slept in a little longer than I should have and I got a late start on the pacific coast highway but that didn’t matter because it was foggy as usual. I went up PCH, and passed through beach town after beach town, my favorite stop of all was Ventura where I purchased some camping provisions from Real Cheap Sports, which is a stop everyone should make if you’re passing through Ventura. I then went to the Patagonia store and they gave me Patagonia Ventura California Stickers, where one of the employees asked if I lost my buddy because he said not five minutes before I showed up a guy on a KLR loaded down had just stopped in. He was on his way back from a trip of the West from Mexico to Alaska! I passed through Santa Barbara next and I drove through the University of Southern California Santa Barbara, which is a really nice campus. I then did the 2 mile drive down State Street in Santa Barbara which is an amazing tree lined street with every store imaginable on it.

It was getting late so I had to bed down for the night and I knew it was going to be hard again to find a camp site. Oh one quick note I apologize about not talking about the ride on PCH very much but there really wasn’t much to talk about because well the entire road was covered in Fog and smoke so I couldn’t even see the ocean from the road! Someone had mentioned this place called Pismo Beach where you can drive off road and camp on the beach so I was so there! I got to Pismo and it was Foggy and Misty and I inspected the sand to make sure Mav wouldn’t sink into the sand, but it was pretty well packed down from all the trucks and dune buggies driving on it.

I aired down the tires to about 10 and 15 psi so I would have better traction in the sand and it made a really big difference! It was still a little slippery but not too bad. So I rode for about a mile in the dunes and it was packed with people, everyone had huge huge lifted trucks and behind them they towed gigantic trailers homes, with huge doors on the back which housed every kind of dune buggy ATV and dirt bike known to man. The place says 15 mph but people were racing at like mach speed around the dunes, I kept Mav at a respectable 15 mph however not too slow because if I stopped I was afraid I would get stuck in the sand, so I had to keep my speed going, it was fun driving on the beach, I even rode a little into the water, there was also a lot of people on horses on the beach which was cool to see as well.

So I found a nice packed sand area near some big trucks and trailers and I had a bit of wine made some delicious tuna fish and ramen and I bedded down. It was misty raining all night long so I didn’t want to spend long outside. I slept great in the sand, but I was woken up at 6 am to the sound of dirt bikes and ATVs racing around the dunes. I was up early and on the road further north. I was excited today at the hopes of maybe the fog clearing up but that didn’t happen. I drove up through San Luis Obispo got a good breakfast at a local coffee shop which had wireless so I was able to get online and pay some bills and take care of some emailing and blog updating.

Back on the road around 12ish and I was headed to Hearst Castle which I was really excited to go see. Words cannot describe how awesome this place is, and how huge it is. Ok so there are 7 different tours and each one is about two hours long! I did the first tour which was recommended for first time visitors and I saw a really good national geographic video about the making of Hearst Castle. Now this place is so big it had two airfields that Mr. William R. Hearst used to fly in guests. The likes of Emilia Earhart, Howard Hughes, and Charles Limburg also were guests and flew into the Hearst Castle as well.

The list of persons who were guests of Mr. Hearst reads like a laundry list of actors, politicians, media moguls and millionaires of the early 1900s. If anyone has the chance it is a sight to see! And to describe the architecture there is near impossible each building is different, there are roman, Greek, Italian, Japanese, Swiss, Moroccan, Egyptian, and English influences in each building. One way to describe the main grand building is a Japanese Swiss Bungalow. Now if that makes any sense to you then be my guest to write a description of what these buildings looked liked. Again I cannot even describe how amazing it is.

After leaving the Hearst compound I started to head north on PCH again however turns out there is a huge forest fire in Big Sur, the best part of the PCH drive and I had to backtrack about 50 miles to get to a detour, which I was not too happy about.

I had to take boring hwy 101 all the way to Monterey where I am now, and I didn’t get in until 10 pm tonight, it was very tough to find an open campground or a non full campground or a campground at that. It’s on to San Francisco tomorrow to stay with my good friend from Egypt Ben!
July 11th 12th, and 13th, 2008
After a misty night in Laguna Seca campground, which I might add is the home of 2008 Moto GP, I headed to Monterey California. Now Monterey wasn’t as spectacular as I thought it was going to be which may be due in part to the tremendous amounts of fog which were blanketing the entire area. Due to the fog my stay in Monterey was brief. In addition to the fog I forgot to mention that the entire Laguna Seca was covered in smoke from the forest fires which have been scorching the California coast.

The smoke was so dense that I could not see the campsite next to me, which made riding all the more hazardous. While in Monterey I stopped in at their historic wharf and cannery row, as made famous by author and extraordinaire John Steinbeck. One site I did like in Monterey was Lighthouse Field State Beach, which is an awesome several mile drive along the cliffs in Monterey through the old historic homes of the city. So to one side are these huge majestic beach houses and to the other side are sheer cliffs with tons of surfers enjoying the waves. A few days before at my campsite just North of Malibu I met a couple who told me that I had to definitely go to Santa Cruz so go I did. One of my favorite things to do on my trip is to visit college campuses so by suggestion of the couple I met I went to University of California Santa Cruz, which is an awesome campus tucked into the mountains and forest. Santa Cruz like Monterey was foggy, something which I have begun to grow accustomed to on the California coast.

Riding further north towards San Francisco the fog let up a bit more and I could actually see the ocean for once along Highway 1. A little after noon I finally had made it to San Francisco, where I had my triumphant reunion with Ben my best friend from 6th grade. Ben works as a Chef in San Francisco and is also something of a bike rider extraordinaire; as such he took me for a tour of the entire city via bike. First stop the painted ladies or as many of you may be more familiar with, the Full House houses. Now this row of houses was made ridiculously popular from the Intro to the 90s hit television show Full House.

Ok saw the houses back to riding, and of all the cities I’ve been through thus far San Fran has to be the most bicycle friendly place ever. The tour Ben gave me was awesome, we went up the popular and busy Market Street, and through the financial district, along the water, past Alcatraz, through the touristy Wharf, and then back to a city park where I caught my breath and Ben and I enjoyed some frosty beverages. It seems as though the open container laws are on par with other popular destinations of mine such as Las Vegas and New Orleans. Frosty beverages in the park turned out to be a great way to relax after a long day of riding both motorized and non motorized cycles.

That evening Ben took me to an Indian slash Pizza restaurant in the Mission area. I subsequently went into a food coma after the amazing Indian pizza we had, along with a ton of other stuff. The next day in San Fran was my day to explore and check out the city as Ben had to go to work. I walked and walked and walked all over the place, first stop, Chinatown which rivals the real China. I swear that if it wasn’t for the American license plates that I sporadically saw then I would not have been able to tell the difference. Chinatown was fun and very busy and bustling.

I kept on my way to the touristy Wharf to get some clam chowder in a bread bowl which I had been craving all day long, but before I could get that I stopped off at the famed Lombard street, the crookedness and steepest street in San Fran. There were tons of people there and the sidewalk is so steep that there are actually steps on it. The wharf was rather cool lots of tourists, lots of boats and I got to see Alcatraz, from afar that is. I decided that the next morning I would get up early and take a ferry to Alcatraz to do the tour however that would not be happening because turns out Alcatraz tickets were booked for almost a week straight so no jail tour which I was kind of bummed about. So I did the next best thing, I decided I would take a harbor tour via boat which takes you around Alcatraz and under the Golden Gate, ect ect.

Ok so there are a bunch of tour boats at the wharf and some are huge with like over 30 people on them and others are small with just 6 people, which I much rather preferred. When I arrived to the Wharf to pick out my boat the 6 person one I wanted was out and would not be back for another hour, and in the mean time 10 of the other huge boats came and went, but I was determined to get on this historic wooden boat that seats 6. I wait and I wait and I wait, finally Serendipity comes back to its berth and I pay my $15 and I get aboard, so I wait and wait and wait until the captain can get 5 more people to round out our numbers to 6. However no one seems to be coming and the sun was getting low on the horizon. Two guys get on and we wait some more all we need is three more people. Well luck have it a family of 4 arrives and wishes to go on the tour, well this is when things started to go south. The Capitan actually kicked me off the boat, since only 6 were allowed to ride and it didn’t look like we were going to get our 3 we needed, and since I was by myself and the odd man out, I was kicked off the boat, and boy was I mad. I had waited specifically for this boat for over an hour, how’s that patronage for you. I angrily stomp down the wharf to the large 30 person boat and I get on board.

The Capitan of my new boat asks me why the long face and I tell him my predicament, and he promises a good trip. I find a good spot at the front of the boat with a bunch of funny ladies in their mid 40s and we chat it up and I tell them my story and it ended up being along more fun than I had planned, they were very funny to talk to and I had someone to take my picture of me as we went under the Golden Gate Bridge. On our way back to the dock I really had to go to the bathroom, and luck have it they had one on the boat, and as I’m getting off the boat, the Captain stops me and says good thing you came aboard because the Serendipity didn’t have a bathroom onboard and it got stuck in the bay, so I was happy again. I make my way back to Ben’s and I get ready for the next day, and since I had seen basically everything I decided I would get on the road the next morning. Next morning rolls around I pack my things say my goodbyes and I get as far as the Golden Gate Bridge when I pull in the clutch to shift and I hear a snap, I look down and my clutch cable is hanging on by just two fine wires and had almost completely sheared off. Oh great another thing to break, and luck have it, it was Sunday so no motorcycle shops were open. So I Mav and I limped our way back to Ben’s, all the while I was praying that the two fine wires that were still connected wouldn’t snap and I would be clutch less.

Being Sunday and being that I was a block away from one of the biggest Catholic Cathedrals on the west coast I made it to the 5:30 mass which was really good and in an amazing Cathedral. Afterwards the cookies and apple juice made up for the almost snapped clutch cable. That evening I walked to Chinatown as Let’s Go suggested I go to Chef Jia’s for some amazingly cheap and good Chinese food, and they really lived up to their reputation, they were cheap, for San Francisco standards and it was amazingly good, I had a spicy peanut chicken dish with sweet potatoes and white rice. Ok so let’s try this again, I wake up the next morning and I make my way to the Gold Coast Cycles, whom I might add were not the most friendly motorcycle dealer that I had visited, I pick up a new clutch cable, which I thought would have been tons of money however it was a measly $17 and it was also the easiest repair I had ever made.

To right now I still cannot believe how easy it was to install, I keep looking at it just to make sure that I installed it correctly because it literally took just 10 minutes and I did it in the parking lot of a Chevron gas station. Once the clutch was repaired I left the city via the Golden Gate Bridge which didn’t charge going the northbound direction which was awesome. My first stop was a small town on the opposite side of the bay, called Sausalito, I moseyed around there for a bit, and it was rather touristy. I got a pastrami, Swiss cheese and avocado sandwich with grilled peppers and oil and vinegar and it was really good. The thing I like about my Let’s Go tour book is that it tells you places to go and the real truth behind them, and one of those places I read about was Bolinas California. The fact that I typed that very name in this blog has probably set off a chain of bad events for myself. See Bolinas is a small coastal town which does not like to be bothered, so much so that they remove any street signs and road signs directing you to their town, and it has stayed like this for decades. Thankfully though I have my trusty Garmin which is like Krypton to the Clark Kent’s of Bolinas. The town is awesome, they have amazing dark sand beaches, with surf shops and cafes all over the downtown area. It is not touristy at all and very down to earth. The folks of Bolinas are very environmentally friendly and there are homemade recycling signs all over the place.

I really enjoyed my time in Bolinas and would love to have a house there someday, it is just so chill, I really think though that some of its residents think it is still the 60s or 70s. After leaving Bolinas I get back on highway 1 and I continue heading north. It was frigidly cold driving up the coast but the views were amazing, the fog and smoke had cleared and I could see all the way out into the ocean and all the craggy cliffs below the highway. There were tons of other motorcyclists out on highway 1 when I was riding, and I could see why, it has tons of twisties and switchbacks and amazing views. The riding was slow going though, I think I might have gone 17 miles and it took almost an hour. When the sun started to set I took the recommendation of a state park ranger to go to Salt Sea Campground. Luck have it when I pulled into my campsite, there were two Suzuki Dual sports parked right next to me and would you believe it they had United Kingdom license plates. Yes you are reading that right.

I could not wait to meet my neighbors, they must be some real world travelers and yes they were. My neighbors were a young couple from Scotland who shipped their bikes to Alaska where they rode North to Prudhoe Bay, then headed south through Canada and were heading all the way to Tierra Del Fuego, the southernmost tip of south America. I must say I was very jealous of them and they had been on the road for about 4 weeks so far. We exchanged stories and seeing that they had come the way I was going they gave me all sorts of good places to go. I was really excited to meet fellow riders, and ones who were doing a trip of this caliber, that is just amazing. I wish them safe travels wherever they may be and I look forward to hearing back from them on the status of their trip! I think I have caught up on all the things that have happened the past few days, now its time to hit the hay.
July 15th 2008,
Tonight I sleep amongst the giants. After skirting the pacific coast for a better part of the day I made my way inland to drive among the redwoods. Today was an epic riding day, and a much needed one at that. The California coast has been rather disappointing with the ever present fog and the smoke and the bitter cold, however it was all made better by today’s ride. It was actually a rather cold morning when I awoke and since I was on the coast the fog had left me a nice misting for the entire night and my tent was soaked, well the rainfly that is, the inside was cozy and warm in my wonderful Marmot Trestles sleeping bag, which I highly recommend to anyone looking for a good bag (and the price was def right). So good sleep, cold wet morning, and a breakfast comprised of map reading and route planning, I was on my way. I hit the coastline highway around 11ish and my first stop was a small town called Medicino, which had the same architect and builder when the town was founded and all he made was Victorian sea houses. The town was rather touristy yet still had its northern California seaside small town charm to it. I stayed all of 5 minutes, because that was all it took to drive the entire town, and I was back on the highway. The coastline was beautiful; it was everything I had wanted to see for the longest time, jagged cliffs, crashing waves, blue waters, and mysteriously black sand beaches, with numerous hidden coves and desolate beaches. I made my way further north along the 1 until I got to a road named Usal Rd, which every dual sport rider should experience at one time in their life. At this point highway 1 heads inland but Usal road continues along the coastline, as it is a remimnant of the logging days, back when a single redwood yielded 22 houses. So back to Usal road, well it started out as bumpy gravel switchbacking its way up the coastal cliffs with some of the most epic views I have yet to see on my adventure. I was honestly shocked as to why no one else was on this amazing road, well albeit I know you need something rather rough road capable but it was really a great ride. I was on Usal Road for about 30 miles or so and I came to Sinkyone Wilderness State Park beach which was an awesome desolate black sand beach which I was able to ride Mav out onto. Well Sinkyone is not named Sinkyone for no reason because as soon as I got out on the sand I definitely sank into the sand, hence the sinky one! So after many tries I finally got Mav back on two wheels and I rolled on. Usal Road was as I said a remnant of logging and it was very evident, there were huge redwood stumps obviously cut down many years before my arrival as they were covered in moss. These stumps were absolutely gigantic though, I could have fit my entire bike on top of some of these stumps and I was absolutely awestruck by how someone with no power tools could possibly get a tree of this size out of these mountains. So more riding on Usal, it started getting pretty rutted out from jeeps and what not and I had to navigate these carefully because unlike the logging trucks that travel these routes frequently I have just two wheels. Mav went down a number of times but I am going to blame this on the fact that I have not been doing any dual sporting in almost a half a month! Well I made it to the end of Usal road, and I was rather sad because it was just an amazing ride, exactly what I wanted to do, a dual sport dirt road along the coast of the pacific, in the mountains with towering trees above me! I then met up with highway 101 and I headed to the avenue of giants which my Scottish riding friends the night before recommended I do. The avenue of giants aws an awesome ride, about 30 miles roughly of twisties through some of the biggest forests I have ever seen! At some of the turnouts through the avenue of giants there were downed redwoods and I parked Mav next to them and my bike didn’t even come close to being the width of some of these huge trees! Well I am now at one of the best campsites I have stayed at yet. I am on a river, with towering redwoods above me, the campsite is desolate and there is not a sole around me. I really cannot ask for anything more, that and I have the soundtrack to ‘into the wild’ courtesy of my good friend Ben blasting on my laptop. I will be very sad to leave here tomorrow, however not before I take a quick dip in the river. Tomorrow though will bring new and greater sights I will be making my way further inland to Crater Lake, which is another recommendation from my Scottish motor biking friends!
July 16th, 2008
With a fuel range comparable to that of most long haul trucks the Kawasaki KLR can get approximately 300 miles between fillips. If that doesn’t say much for you, this will, I filled up twice today. I had not done a long mileage day since probably that afternoon I was fed up of the desert at the Grand Canyon and I raced 5 hours through the 104 degree heat to the oasis known as Las Vegas. Well I don’t quite keep to a schedule but I had to in this case, I needed to be in Portland by tomorrow and Seattle the day after so there was much to see and many a mile to cover, and due to the high mileage day, I of course slept in and did not arise early as I should have. In any event I was on the road around 11ish and heading north east. Today I did a lot of gravel road riding which I was rather excited with, I needed some good dual sporting under these legs so the gravel roads between my camp and the Oregon state line were just what I was looking for! I headed east down hwy 36 to Kneeland road which is a twisty a half gravel half potholed pavement road connecting hwy 36 and hwy 299 in north eastern California. The weather was great the riding was good and Mav was running well. Somewhere between the town of Kneeland, if you can call it that, it was more like a stop sign, I was riding through some awesome turns, and there it was! I come around a bend, clutch in, shift up, throttle out and what is directly in my path but two Bambis. Just my luck I immediately shift down using as much of the engine brake as I can so I don’t lock the brakes, and I pump the front and rear brake to stop as quickly and as controlled as I could but to no avail the stupid deer just stood there and did not move. Finally they darted however their hoved feet were not the greatest in regards to traction on the blacktop and they spun out in an attempt to race for safety, sadly I nicked the one deer’s back leg with my front tire, but they were fine I saw they prancing around later on as if nothing happened. Well in any event when I put old Mav into such an extreme stop and I tried to turn the front tire to avoid Bambi’s leg when I turned the tire Mav went one way and I went the other and next thing I know the bike is down and I am sitting on the pavement. Well this has happened many a time, the bike going down that is, however at my last stop I seemed to forget to close the zipper on my tank bag and all my things went scatter brain all over the blacktop. Thankfully though Maverick, the Bambis and myself all walked away from the incident unscathed. Back on and riding, as per my new Scottish friends suggestion I took hwy 96 which is an amazing 127 mile road which follows a river and passes through Six Rivers National Forest. The ride was epic tons of twisties, lots of downshifting into turns and rolling on the throttle out of them, it was great! There were also a number of other motorcyclists on hwy 96 as well, however most of them were all sport bikes and I could see why they loved this place, you could lean into every turn for some peg scraping good fun! I met one rider at a gas stop on hwy 96 who was decked out in full race gear, he was headed on his way to Laguna Seca to see the Red Bull Moto GP, where I had just come from while in Monterey. Sadly though his two riding buddies got into a little accident and one of them dropped their bike, a nice bike at that, most likely slipped while coming into a turn on some gravel, so I believe one of them was going to have to ride 2 up with his buddy all the way to Laguna Seca…. Wow that’s a long drive! Hwy 96 continued on for many more miles until around the halfway point when it started to get very smoky due to the fires in the area. There were tons of fire crews positioned all along hwy 96 for as far as I could see, the smoke was pretty thick and it blocked the sun out completely. When I did look for it, the sun through the smoke turned everything into a foggy orange glow, which was rather earie. The smoke cleared towards the end of hwy 96 and I continued on to my campsite, the first one I picked was a state park with no running water and tons of mosquitoes and it was $8 so I left and rode on and I found this awesome motel run by what looked to be some equally awesome hippies. They charged me just $5 for a tent site and they had hot showers and running water and a fire was going. They also ran an organic grocery store where I picked up a delicious organic wheat beer to compliment my chicken noodle soup dinner. Tomorrow it’s on to Crater Lake, and I will surely set my alarm for an early time because after that I’ll be making my way to visit more friends in Portland!